I decided to follow the lowering directions outlined in the Bob Sharp
manual. I did one extra thing, however. I cut a 6"piece of 2x4 and nailed
it to a broom handle, with marks for 2", 3", 4", and 5". I utilized the
"go-no go" theory I learned from my old army days, and found my frame to be
5" from the cement floor in the rear and the bellhousing to be 4 1/2" from
the floor in front. I then cut four pieces of 1/2" thick aluminum in a 2
1/2"x4" rectangle shape, with a 1" hole in the middle for the spring
clamping bolts. I had to go to a tractor supply house, but I found 2 1/2"
u-bolts that were 7" long to replace the standard u-bolt, and then drilled
the holes in the stock spring plate holders to 7'16" to allow for the larger
u-bolts. For the front springs I used my Harbor Freight 4 1/2" grinder and
bevel cut (ground) one coil from a stock spring. I cut 1" from all four
bumper stops. When I had everything back together I used my "go-no go"
piece of 2x4 and found that I had decreased my rear frame height to 4" and
the bellhousing clearance to 3 1/2". Ergo, a 1" ride height decrease. An
extra spacer in the back, and an extra 1/2 coil, and I can lower the car
another 1/2".
With taller street tires, the front tires rubbed on the fenders, and with
wider autocross tires, the rear tires rubbed. I used a rubber hammer to
"adjust" the fenders.
Leisure Suit Terry
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