I am forwarding the step by step that I recieved from Toby probably over a
year ago. I used these instructions soley and had no problems. Anything in
brackets is a comment regarding my experience and something I may have done
differently. When I install my next top, I hope to take step by step
pictures. I am no expert, mind you, but if someone as inexperienced in
convertible tops as myself can get the results I did, you should consider
doing the job yourself. Hope this is useful.
Nathan
>
> It's not too bad, but give yourself a few 4- hour sessions, at least a
> few days apart.
> 1: get the bow fixed. You'll go crazy if you don't. I reinforced and
> rewelded my own, with pretty good luck. Your mileage may vary...
> 2: drill holes in the 2 vertical supports, the bars that come down from
> the top and attach right behind the seats, approx. 1" up from the
> originals. This is critical- the Whitney top WON'T fit if you don't. (I
> had a much different experience! My top fit perfectly. It sounds like
> Whitney may have sent him a top for a low windshield model. If my top
would
> have fit that poorly, I probably would have sent it back)
> 3: Put the rear bar into the top, and hook it into place on the car.
> Make sure you get the top centered over the frame. Having your windows
> up helps at this point, altho they do get in the way. (I did not put the
> windows up in my vehicle as they weren't installed at the time, so it not
> necessary BUT would make things MUCH easier)
> 4: Stretch the beejesus out of the top. I did this with really strong
> cloth tape (gaff tape) pulling the top down the windshield, working my
> way back and forth, tightening tape as I went. (It is easier to have help
on
> this step. One additional step I took was using a permanent marker to
> number and mark measured increments down from the top of the windshield.
> This allowed me a reference to confirm that I was streching the top
evenly.
> It also allowed me to see that my tape wasn't slipping.)
> 5: Let it sit. The warmer, the better. A few days, at the least.
> 6: come back to it, and make sure you're pretty happy with the fit.
> Repeat 4 and 5 if needed. I got almost all of the wrinkles out of it,
> but again your mileage may vary...
> 7: When you're sure you're happy, mark the holes for twisties and
> posties, keeping in mind that you want them to be tight, but not so
> tight that they'll pop apart. Again, I tensioned the top down the body
> with tape- not as aggressively as the front, but enough to get almost
> all of the wrinkles out. (I did this step differently. First of all, out
> of last resort, I used snaps rather than the twisties and posities-I would
> recommend using original equipment, but use what's available. I started
in
> the back-nearest the rear bar hold downs, streching and marking the top.
I
> had someone else streching out the wrinkles on the opposite side to
> counteract my pulling. After securing this fastener, I went to the other
> side and installed the corresponding snap. I continued this routine from
> side to side until all of the fasteners were installed.)
> 8: Mount the T&P hardware, and fasten the top to the car with them.
> 9: Repeat 4 & 5 for good measure. Make sure the bow is latched firmly
> to the windshield.
> 10: Put a good, sticky, flexible tape along the top to mark where it
> meets the leading edge of the bow. Or use a wax pencil- but that may
> stain. Mark a centerline on both the bow and the top. (After the top was
> streched, I used a piece of soft chalk, to mark the leading edge of the
bow
> on the top. Like Toby said, I would really hesitate to use a wax or
grease pencil)
> 11: Release all tension on the top, unlatch the bow, and fold it up
> about a foot. Realign your mark with the edge of the bow. Make sure
> you're centered.
> 12: Attach the top to the bow, working from the center to the edges.
> It's permanant now, so be SURE you're right. I found the stock holding
> strips to be a real pain, so I cut some out of 1/8" bar stock. I made
> 'em the same shape as the front bow, which made my life a LOT
> easier.... (I reused the same hold strip with no ill effects. After I
had
> fitted it and was satisfied, I removed the strip and screws, applying a
bead
> of black trim adhesive to the bottom of the bow, then reinstall the strip
> and screws. I did this to help remove the stress points that the screws
and
> strip produce. Another note, you need to be careful not to get trim
> adhesive on the top of the bow, as they may bleed through and make for a
> less than eye pleasing job)
> 13: (figures we would end on 13, eh?) wrestle the top up and closed.
> Now you can trim the excess material, and install those cool side
> cables. Easy, huh?
>
>
>
>
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