Mark,
I just got finished replacing a great deal of my underdash wiring. The
White/Red wire is the ammeter wire. The C-shaped ends should only be long
enough to fasten to the ammeter's two INSULATED posts. The other ends
(three of them) of the White/Red wire fasten, one to the fuse box, one end
to the starter pigtail (underhood by the brake master cylinder), one to the
alternator pigtail (underhood by the alternator). If you run a Chevrolet
one-wire alternator and the White/Red wire grounds somewhere because it
isn't being used and is "taped off", it smokes and melts in a spectacular
fashion, and sometimes bursts into flame, all the while turning your ammeter
into a very high amperage fuse. But that's another story.
The doorjamb button is for an underdash light, which it looks as if you
don't have. I had that light on one of my roadsters. The button grounds
when the door is open, and completes a hot circuit from the bulb to the
grounded door, which lights the light.
Those little "cans" are probably the turn signal and emergency flasher
units. Good luck on connecting them correctly. The diagram you have may
not have the same number of "cans" or the same number of wires. Datsun had
a single flasher for turn signals and then added a flasher which made all
the turn lights flash at once. Check the pull-switch with the word
"flasher" on the knob and see what the wire colors are and where they go.
They should go to one of the "cans". Other list members can probably help
more.
On the matter of oil for my SU dashpots, I use Marvel Mystery Oil. It's
probably very similar to ATF, but I like to say "Marvel Mystery Oil", and
since I suck much of it out through the carbs, I like to think the top-lube
properties of the "Mystery Oil" are better than plain old ATF. I also like
to say "STP", but that is a little thick for the dashpots.
Leisure Suit Terry
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