Greg,
Are you using a H20 (forklift) crankshaft or a U20 (2000 roadster)
crankshaft for the project?
The H20 crankshaft should be a drop in.
The U20 crankshaft needs that front end of the crankshaft modified.
You should have the R16 crankshaft. With both side by side, the
machinist should be able to modify the U20 item to match the R16
crankshaft.
I would recommend using the U20 front pulley/dampner so I'd
have the machinist match that keyway on the pulley. A quick
check of my U20 engine, shows a 5mm woodruff key width. 5mm
is NOT common size for most equipment, so the price quote
might include the price of a keyway cutter.
Quite a few folks on the list are running "pushrod" 2000's,
so hopefully they will jump in and comment.
Cheers,
Tom Walter
P.S. What price did the machinist quote on the keyway pricing?
> I am currently working on rebuilding my R16 to a pushrod 2L and I have a
> question on the crankshaft mod. What exactly needs to be modified with the
> two keyways. After the crank is shortened do you need to fill in the
> remaining keyway, and have two new keyways machined or ??? The machinist
> quoted me a price for cutting new keyways, and it was extremely high. Any
> help on this mod, and what others have paid for the same work would be a
> huge help!
>
> Greg Nelson
> Denver, CO
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