Hi Don,
The outside wear would point to insufficient negative camber.
This is magnified with Std springs and std bar.
If you have a picture of the car at full noise in a corner, then the
outside wheel should be straight up and down, not leaned over.
Then the camber setting is right.
Ill scan a pic of my race car going thru a corner hot on the weekend so
that you can see what I mean.
Of course with a street car you should compromise with less camber.
Your new set up should help heaps.
If loading more spacers for camber be careful to use a longer hi tensile
bolt in the top where the shims go and locktite it. Spacers can come loose
as I have found.
Regards,
Howard
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Miller [SMTP:turbospl311@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, 17 February 2000 2:09
To: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Tire Pressure - experience in racing a 2000
These were my cold settings. I foudn that for the
concrete we ran on it worked better for a little
higher pressure. If I ran 30 F 32 R, I would wear the
outside edge too fast and cord them before even 1/2
wear in the middle.
I guess I was a little vague in my response. Here are
all pressures I used for Kumho V700 R tires:
Autocross:
Concrete 34 F 38 R
Asphalt 31 F 32 R
Cold Pressure checked whan I first get the car
unloaded and then ususally checked after 2-3 runs.
My car weighed in at 2010 lbs and I was running 15x6.5
wheels with 205/50/15 tires. Also I do not run a front
sway bar but then I had the stock springs front and
rear. The whole suspension has been changed this
winter so new settings to be found at our first event
March 19.
Don Miller
68 Turbo V-6
70 2000
Meridian, ID
Must Go Faster Racing
> Don were you talking
> hot or cold
> measurements (34 38 seems high for cold)?
>
Do You Yahoo!?
|