My 68 2L has coolent seeping down the sides of the block. Has been doing
so for some time. No overheating or coolent being forced out. Ran fine on
a 3000 mi. + trip this summer. Had assumed that I needed to remove the
head and put in a new head gasket. Is there a possibilty that re-rorquing
the head bolts might solve the problem?
Ray
68 1600
68 2000 (with rust stains on the block)
At 05:00 PM 09/16/1999 CDT, Thomas Walter wrote:
>
>Steve,
>
>Retorque the headbolts when the engine is COLD. I let it sit
>overnight.
>
>One bolt at a time, in the "normal manner" (starting on the inner
>bolts, and working outwards in a spiral pattern). If you loosen
>ALL the headbolts at the same time, then you'll need to REPLACE
>the headgasket, as you will break the seal. Just loosen, and
>retighten, ONE BOLT AT A TIME.
>
>Usually you only need to retorque the head at 500 miles. Usually
>after the engine has had ten good "hot/cold" cycles.
>
>As to the antifreeze seeping into the cylinder: No need to drain
>the coolant, but REMOVE all four spark plugs. When you are done
>with re-torqing the head bolts, just crank the engine over. Any
>coolant that might have seeped into the cylinder is just expelled.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Tom Walter '67 2000
>Austin, TX '68 2000
>
>
>>I just had my engine rebuilt and want to treat it right.
>>My mechanic said to re-torgue the head bolts after half hour, at 500 miles,
>>and at each tune up. He said as long as I did them one at a time, following
>>the pattern, I would not have to drain the antifreeze.
>>My friend, whose opinion I respect, didn't think this would be good enough
>>as the idea is to relieve the pressure on the gasket by loosening them all
>>up and therefore must also drain the antifreeze.
>>My friend and I are interested in what you guys recommend. I want to do the
>>right thing, but not necessarily do extra work if it is not needed.
>>Thanks,
>>Steve Carter
>>69 1600
>>
>>
>
|