Michael,
One trick you may want to try, is temporary use a "remote starter"
push button. One end is connected to the battery, the other is
connected to the spade connector on the starter.
Idea is to hit the starter solenoid with a good full voltage,
and current, to pull the starter solenoid nicely in.
Over the years a little corrosion, fatigue, dirt, will all work
its way into points throughout the wiring harness. The solenoid
really likes a good full voltage on it to pull nicely in.
A little resistance on the ignition switch, and connections,
all start adding up. Simplest trick is to use a RELAY to
supply battery voltage to the starter solenoid. The relay
coil is controlled by the ignition switch "start" position.
ORIGINAL WIRE:
Starter Solenoid Spade Ignition Switch
o---------------------------------------------------o
NEW
Starter Solenoid Spade 87 ________ 30 Battery Terminal*
o--------------------o o-----------------------o
o---------------------()()()------------------------o
GROUND 85 86 Ignition Switch
NOTE: Battery Terminal can come directly off the battery CABLE
stud on the starter. I use a FUSIBLE link connection for this.
The four numbers I gave are the DIN standard for RELAYS. Use
a GOOD QUALITY RELAY! 12V, 30 Amp. Bosch & Siemens are two suppliers
of good quality. If it says "made in taiwan", just save yourself
aggravation, and toss into the trash can first!
Your starter switch now only needs to carry 1 Amp to pull in the
relay, not an inrush of 20A to pull in the solenoid.
Cheers,
Tom Walter '67 2000
Austin, TX '68 2000
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