Robert,
Typically there is a build up of "crud" around the inside
lip of the master cylinder.
I'll use the edge of a screw driver to scrape most of that
stuff away. Three handed operation, as you should depress the
master cylinders piston into the body a little when you do
this.
Once almost all the "Crud" is removed, try wiping it with a
clean rag.
Then playing "pop the piston", I will use a short rod and push
the piston in, letting it pop back out some. Keep repeating.
Little WD-40 helps, and gets your hands even dirtier.
Also, sharply rapping the back of the master cylinder onto
a piece of hardwood helps force the piston on.
After two hours of playing "pop goes the piston", and a little
"rap" song, the piston finally comes out. Do NOT try to grap
it with vise grips, but you need to use soft jawed pliers (
I slit a piece of fuel line, and use it inside my pliers for
this).
The piston is finally out. Time to enjoy a nice ALE.
Clean up the cylinder, and usually you'll find nice big pits
in it. Either replace it, or have the cylinder sleeved before
installing a new kit.
I usually have about a 50/50 luck in getting a rebuildable cylinder.
Even if you buy a NEW ONE, take all the parts of the old one. Clean
it up, and spray it down with WD-40. Place everything into a heavy
duty zip lock back. Even better if you can use your hand held
vacuum pump to remove most of the air first. Seal it up, BIG FELT
pen writing on the bag as to what it is, and what it came off of.
Reason for keeping "rebuildable" wheel cylinders and master cylinders
is knowing the day will come we can not longer buy new, and you can
help out a fellow roadster owner.
Oh, if I am working on someone else's roadster... I just buy new
cylinders. Cheaper on labor, and no problem with a leaking cylinder.
Cheers,
Tom
>
>- After I pulled the little clip off, and the screw on the underside, I
>expected the internal
> pieces to come right out, they didn't. Can anyone shed some light on
>rebuilding it?
>
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