Tom -
I have used the Redline oils as well, but am still perplexed about the
two different transmission oils they offer. Their "MTL" (used by mostly
by motorcycle people) is apparently so slick that it defeats synchros,
while the Gear Oil is slick but allows complete synchro action.
I have used both and found the MTL caused the notchiness you comment on,
while the Gear Oil does not. One big improvement with both is in cold
weather operation, where you are not trying to move molasses-weight
petroleum oils on start-up.
- Bob
Thomas Walter wrote:
>
> >Now that I have the beast running after two years of problem, I thought
> >I should change the gear box oil. How do I do that? I see the plug to
> >drain it but where do I put the oil in?
>
> Tom,
>
> The fill plug is a square sided plug on the side of the gear
> box. Driver's side for us USA left hand drive cars.
>
> I always recommend LOOSENING that plug first (big cresent
> wrench), THEN removing the drain plug. I like to use a
> big magnet and get an idea of what is in the fluid being
> drained. Not uncommon to see shiny metal in there, but there
> should not be anything so large to feel when rubbed between
> your thumb and index finger.
>
> On a 4 speed, if you see any little metal rods about 1/32" x 1"
> long. DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR! Those are support bearings for the
> countershaft. Caught in time, it is a simple repair.
>
> GEAR OIL: I like 85W/90 Castrol Gear Oil. Get a bucket of
> HOT WATER and drop the bottle in for 10 minutes. Pull the bottle
> out, and wipe off all the water. Much easier to pour, or pump,
> when it is warm!
>
> Ditto for the rear end! Usually I change trany and diff fluid
> every two years. Cheap insurance.
>
> I also like the Redline synthetic gear oils. The syncho's feel
> notchy at first, but shifting improves over time. Still not sure
> if I got used the the feel, or if the additives helped worn
> synchro's spin up quicker.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Tom Walter
> Austin, TX
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Port Washington, NY 11050 > tel 516-944-0900, fax -7280
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