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Re: U20 - Timing Cover removal

To: glasgow@serv.net
Subject: Re: U20 - Timing Cover removal
From: BERKEN@aol.com
Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 13:55:35 EST
In a message dated 12/31/98 10:45:29 PM Mountain Standard Time,
glasgow@serv.net writes:

<< m a bit more lenient than Tom on the use of silicone, but he's right
 about the need to use it sparingly. Don't put it on like you're caulking a
 bathtub! I use a piece of thin cardboard like a squeegee and try to get a
 thin even coat.
 
 I use it on the gaskets for the oil pan, manifold, front cover, water pump
 and thermostat housing. Basically I use it anywhere the surfaces are not
 precisely machined, because it does a good job of conforming to uneven
 surfaces. On any machined surfaces like the tensioners or head, I use
 Kopper Kote (the liquid). >>

Here's another way to seal some things.  Years ago, I worked as a parts clerk
in a Chevy dealership and one of the mechanics there used 3M weatherstrip
adhesive on some things, like oil pan and valve cover gaskets.  His saying
was, "useit if YOU don't expect to take it apart again" as it's pretty hard to
get off.  Scraping and lacquer thinner or acetone will take it off.  I use in
to seal two surfaces to keep oil from leaking, like front cover or oil pan.
You put an even coat on both surfaces then wait a few minutes for them to get
really tacky, then stick them together and don't move them around.  I also
"glue" my valve cover gasket on my 1600 to the cover, but don't seal it to the
head.  This keeps it from wanting to move around and as long as the top
surface of the head is flat, won't leak.

Joseph Berkenbile
70 1600 

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