Glenn,
Are those plugs really brass? I have removed core plugs from many
cast iron blocks but not yet from an aluminum one. My engine build is
still in the future. I suppose the trick is to find a way to pry them out
without gouging the aluminum surface, especially the perifery of the
opening where the new ones will have to seal. How about using a block of
wood for a fulcrum. Wish I could be more specific.
Is your engine a Buick Special or Olds F-85. Sounds like the old
valves are Olds and the new ones, Buick. They are 2 very different
animals. The collars (Valve "Locks", or "keepers") are definitely not
interchangable in either direction. The Buick type is unique to Buick.
The Olds type is very similar to, maybe even interchangable with, Chevrolet.
The Olds heads have 6 head bolt holes surrounding each cylinder, 18
total per head, and the rocker arm cover gasket surface is approximately
parallel to the lower head gasket surface. The Buick heads have only 5
bolt holes surrounding each cylinder, 14 total per head, and the rocker arm
gasket surface is at a very definite angle to the lower head gasket
surface. The valves are different lengths and diameters as well.
For what it's worth,
Dave K.
***********************************************************
Since I am rebuilding my 215, I thought it would be nice to change out the
>very dirty brass freeze plugs on the side of my block. Just how in the world
>do you get these things out? Is there some trick that I'm missing? I've
>drilled, pried, and cussed (that didn't seem to help any).
>
>Another quick question: The replacement valves I purchased (NOS Buick
>valves) arrived, but are different from the ones I removed. The slot for the
>retaining collars (probably not the right term) is almost 1/2" long. The
>ones I removed just had a slot that was only about 1/16" long. Can I use the
>same two piece collars on installation?
>
>Thanks again for all the help,
>
>Glenn
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