Good advice, Bill.
Gene Gillam
Saucier, MS
--------------------------------------------------
From: <WSpohn4@aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 11:29 AM
To: <mikey@b2systems.com>
Cc: <british-cars@autox.team.net>; <british-cars-pre-war@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [British-cars] [PreWar] are these lists still alive ?
> Doesn't matter. If the crack is structural and will travel or is
> unstable it would need to be welded, which can be done with special rod
> and
> preheating, but otherwise it just needs to be sealed, which brazing or
> Devcon
> accomplishes. I would pressure test it (bearing in mind that it perhaps
> isn't
> a pressurized system - is it thermo-siphon?) and if it isn't leaking, sand
> the brazing smooth and paint over it.
>
> Don't look for more problems than you probably have. If the repair seems
> stable, do not be tempted to grind it all out just because it 'isn't
> right'
> and replace it with something else that might be cosmetically nicer but
> is
> mechanically equivalent.
>
> Bill Spohn
>
>
> In a message dated 3/17/2010 9:19:44 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> mikey@b2systems.com writes:
>
> I also need to find out the condition of the original motor as I have
> not looked into it yet. When I purchased the car from the original
> owner, he said it ran fine with no noises/knocks but knocked when
> shutting down the motor, turn off the ignition and there was a knock in
> the motor. Last time this motor ran was on the S. Calif. 405 freeway in
> 1968 when the brakes went out and the car was parked until I purchased
> it. There is a visible crack in the side of the block that has been
> brazed, not welded, but brazed.
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