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Re: Turn signal switch questions (2 of 2)

To: british-cars@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Turn signal switch questions (2 of 2)
From: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2006 18:48:25 -0500
If this is the case, then you could have one of several problems.

a. the switch in your control head is bad,
b. you have a broken hot wire (from the flasher) to the control head,  the
   TR3 has a steering col. that is approx. 5 1/2' in length.  The turn signal
   switch & horn are located on the control head that is attached to a stator
   tube that runs down the entire length of the steering column.  The wires
   from the control head to the wiring harness with connectors right near
   the steering box.  If anyone has been working on the car, it's possible
   that the power lead go disconnected.
c. the switch in the control head is bad,
d. if both (left & right) turn signals tie to a common chassis ground, you
   have a bad ground.  If either the front or rear ground is bad, you may
   not have enough current draw to cause the flasher to flash.
e. you did not have the ign. switch in the on/run position.
f. I believe that the turn signals are fused.  You could have a bad fuse.

An asside here.  When I put the steering column back in my dad's TR the
turn signals took about 30 seconds light, then off for 1 seconds.  You 
didn't really see them blink.  We went to the local auto parts store and
got an "electronic" flasher.  These are time and drive a relay.  They don't
depend on the current to open and close the internal switch.  So no they
blink great, even if one of the lights is burned out.

>Is my simple SPDT switch not up to what I need? I was so proud of myself 
>for seeing the diagram and recognizing (I thought) that the turn signals 
>were a simple SPDT switch.

That should NOT be a problem.  Almost any SPDT switch should work.

>Anyone know where I am most likely to have gone wrong here?
>I am going to replace the original control head switch and am not squeamish 
>about removing it but I have been spending alot of money on the car recently 
>and need to take a break for a while.

Be very careful doing this.  I'm pretty sure there's a clamp at front of the 
steering box, that holds the stator tube in place.  You MUST undo that clamp
BEFORE you try and pull the hub and stator tube out of the steering column.

The last question, where are you connecting your new SPDT swith into the
wiring system?  If you are trying to replace or parallel the switch in
control hub, are you trying to connect the switch on the hub?  If so how
did you get
to the wires?  If not, then did you disconnect the wires down at the steering
box, and extend them up to the dash?

John

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va             
Phone:  (757) 495-8229

          48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
     75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                       65 Rambler Classic

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Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

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