At 09:19 AM 6/21/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>First, I need some suggestions on removing rust -- all of it of the
>surface variety. I have a couple bare engine blocks that have a fine
>protective coating of iron oxide that I'd like to remove prior to
>painting and cylinder glaze-breaking.
At the risk of stating the obvious, MGB blocks are made of the finest
Stilton cheese, and that surface crud is mold, not rust. Seriously, unless
you have miked the bores carefully and are satisfied, ANY MGB block is
likely to require far more than glaze-breaking. Check the upper cylinder
for a ridge, which is likely to be there. If so, time to re-bore and get
new pistons. These blocks rarely last more than 75,000 miles. As for rust
removal, just hitting the surface won't do. You should pull all of the
core plugs and take the block to a competent machine shop and get it
hot-tanked. There will be piles of rust in the cooling jacket that should
be removed.
> I also have multitudinous wire
>knock-on wheels, all of the painted variety, that need rust removal
>prior to refinishing, and some of them are still affixed to their
>splined hubs, which I'm afraid may be frozen with corrsion -- any
>special technique for saving the splines and threads on both wheel and
>hub would be most appreciated.
Here I would simply advise that they should all be dumped. Used wire
wheels will almost always be out of line or not round and have bad
spokes. Moreover, the splines will doubtless be worn, on both the wheels
and the hubs. Re-using wire wheels is a very bad economy when replacements
are not that expensive. Note that sharp splines are a bad, not a good,
sign. Useful splines will have a rounded top and be symmetric (the angle
on both sides will match). If there is a groove along the spline, it is
shot. There should be little, if any, slop when a good wire wheel is put
on the hub.
If a wheel is frozen on the hub, it may be that the grease has hardened (if
you are lucky). Try splashing on a solvent and letting it soak in before
resorting to medieval methods.
> NB: in regard to the knock-on wheels,
>all of them of the 14" variety: do the 15" wires from the MG-A fit the
>MG-B hubs? I need to fill the wheel-wells of this fiberglass body with
>the 15" wheels and tires it was designed for.
Yep, the hubs will fit, but the rims are pretty narrow on the MGA. You
would be better served with wheels from an MGC, they are broader.
>In addition I have several complete steering rack-and-spitoon
>assemblies with accumulated crud, mud, and rust, but which are
>perfectly free in movement, all boots and ball-joints intact, but with
>the tie-rod-end threads surface rusted. I'm looking for any tips
>regarding the safe (for the parts, not so much for me -- I'm
>expendable) chemical, mechanical, or spiritual removal of rust, scale,
>gunk, goo,what-have-you.
Get a parts washer from a place like Harbor Freight (under $100) and dump
in a few gallons of mineral spirits. Soak thoroughly and brush clean. DO
NOT use abrasives (bead blasting), you will never get the junk out. Use a
fine wire wheel on the tie rod ends.
A. B. Bonds
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