> I have a pair of SU H6 carbs on my TR3 engine. They were
> recently rebuilt.
> The choke cable is operational but takes a great deal of effort
> to pull out.
> I've checked the cable operation and there is no binding and the
> cable pulls
> out with very no effort if not attached to the choke linkage. The problem
> appears to be in the choke levers on the carb. Undoing one of the return
> springs on the levers makes it workable but still difficult to pull out.
Are the return springs stock (ie not 'improved' by clipping off a few turns)
? And do they successfully return the jets against the mixture nuts ? If
so, the jets must be moving freely enough. (If not, it's time to take the
jet housings back out, replace the seals and springs, and buff the jets
themselves until they shine.)
What about the fast idle cam ? I've seen the linkage to the cam get jammed
up ... or the cam itself may be trapped between the screw that holds it on
and the boss it's supposed to slide over.
Beyond that, the linkage is pretty simple, and all the pivots should be
pretty loose. I would probably proceed by disconnecting the linkage from
the jets (remove the cotter pin & cross pin from the jet) and looking to see
where the linkage is tight.
A TR2/3 choke does take a bit more force to pull out than most cars
(including later TR4 with ZS carbs) ... you might want to compare your car
to someone else's. I usually brace my thumb on the dash and pull the knob
with my index and second fingers. Working the housing full of grease will
help, too.
Randall
59 TR3A daily driver (still with original H6 carbs)
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