Barrie, there are alternatives to Tremclad all of which are inexpensive
generic types of rust paint. Why not do a little research if you're not in
a hurry to get the car coated. Perhaps you could coat areas of a piece of
unfinished mild steel sheet and leave it out in the weather for a month.
You could even wet it regularly and dump some salt or calcium chloride on
it to see what happens. After a month - or longer if you can spare the
time - you might be able to tell us what worked best or whether they were
all about the same.
I agree about the cost of POR 15 but the trick is to keep re-using the
stuff until its gone. Keep pouring and draining. You only have to fill
the sill or door bottom once, then let it drain into your catch basin and
move on to the next panel. I'd bet that not more than a gallon would be
plenty for a whole car. Compare the cost of that gallon to the cost of a
commercial "rust-proofing" by some company. I'd bet the POR 15 would look
a lot cheaper in the long run.
John
>Damn you John !
>
>You are making too much sense! Now I will have to change my plans. The
>use of paint seems like a very good idea. Oh well that's how it goes in
>this hobby yes?? However, as the wax would be applied last one would never
>be painting the parts again !! So a wax coating would be fine. Actually
>POR 15 would be better than Tremclad, which I never really trust as I had
>poor results on my BBQ, but it is SO expensive !!
>
>At 10:27 AM 11/25/01 -0700, you wrote:
>>Hi Barrie;
>>
>>Both approaches are messy. Don't use the beeswax. The stuff in the
>>pyramids was never exposed to water was it? The biggest problem with the
>>wax is that it just won't penetrate as well as one would think and how do
>>you get it to completely cover all inner surfaces? The final problem is
>>that once the wax touches a surface, however inadvertantly, it will be very
>>difficult to clean it properly - if you haven't already painted. You could
>>end up with a super fish eye problem after wax specks or worse adhere to
>>the exterior of the body.
>>
>>The paint method is simple and highly effective. Remember that this is a
>>rust paint and bonds chemically to the surface of the metal. It will then
>>drain out for a day or so until it dries. Just park car over newspapers
>>then toss everything when dry. Very simple and mistakes can be sanded and
>>painted over - unlike wax.
>>
>>John
>>
>>
>> >John,
>> >
>> >Someone sent me the recipe for Waxoyl - paraffin wax dissolved in mineral
>> >spirits! This would be cheap to make. Waxoyl can be thinned with mineral
>> >spirits and/or by heating it up. I am looking to protect my nice new shiny
>> >(dipped) body and wax seems like a very good idea. I am about to
>> >investigate bees wax. Apparently they found bees wax treated leather in
>> >the pyramids that was still soft! I use it on my leather winter boots and
>> >it is fantastic (Tana makes it). So it may do well protecting metal (don't
>> >think it will soften it ha-ha). The pouring in paint sounds good but
>> >awfully messy??
>> >
>> >
>> >At 09:52 PM 11/24/01 -0700, John McEwen wrote:
>> >>Hi Trevor:
>> >>
>> >>Long time no speak. As I understand it, the biggest problem with
>>waxoyl is
>> >>that is too stiff and cannot penetrate into small seams. Also, it cannot
>> >>reach a lot of the areas within box section sills and floor structures.
>> >>
>> >>What I have been doing gets around this problem to a large degree. One of
>> >>my friends has been using this system for years. He closes off all of the
>> >>factory drains from sills using duct tape. He then drills a hole or two
>> >>under the door sill plate and then fills the entire volume with Tremclad
>> >>paint. He lets it sit then drains off the residue - collecting it in a
>> >>pan. He then uses the collected paint on the other sill. This method
>> >>ensures that the space is filled not simply sprayed in with a hope for the
>> >>best.
>> >>
>> >>On a car such as a TR he will do the same with the frame - when he is
>>doing
>> >>a restoration. He simply closes the openings and fills it, then lets it
>> >>drain. Doors can be treated this way while on the car as well as trunk
>> >>lids and hoods. It is simply a matter of letting the paint collect and
>> >>soak in.
>> >>
>> >>This same technique can be used in other closed areas provided access is
>> >>available from above and drains can be closed below. This would work on
>> >>Spitfires where the cowls tend to rust out in the lower corners above the
>> >>sills. There are many other examples. Following this treatment, an
>> >>occasional oil soaking works well. The oil is poured in using the same
>> >>technique then allowed to drain. This only needs to be done every 2 or 3
>> >>years depending on conditions of use.
>> >>
>> >>It is an effective and very efficient alternative to expensive Waxoyl. It
>> >>is also very cheap as a gallon of Tremclad vs a gallon of Waxoyl is no
>> >>contest for price.
>> >>
>> >>John
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> >John McEwen wrote:
>> >> >> Waxoyl will solve rust problems
>> >> >
>> >> > Good post all around, but question...
>> >> >
>> >> > ...what do you consider the modern alternative to
>> >> >waxoyl?
>> >> >
>> >> >--
>> >> >Trevor Boicey, P. Eng.
>> >> >Ottawa, Canada, tboicey@brit.ca
>> >> >ICQ #17432933 http://www.brit.ca/~tboicey/
>> >> >"At what point does a slow puncture just become a puncture?" Will Holman
>> >
>> >Regards
>> >Barrie
>> >
>> >Barrie Robinson - barrier@bconnex.net
>
>Regards
>Barrie
>
>Barrie Robinson - barrier@bconnex.net
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