RE: TR6 diff mount breakage
I would like to know the EXACT location where the diff mounts crack/break
so I can weld a suitable brace/re-inforcement. Originality is NOT a
question as this will be the infamaous E-Prod TR6 racecar and the only
concern is strength. Bodge is not a dirty word in my garage believe me!
Is it the forward or rear crossmember or is it at the bolt location in
the crossmembers? Other than that the frame has been welded, rewelded,
reworked and repaired, beadblasted and zinc chromated and I'm almost
ready to plop the body back on but for that one repair under discussion.
BTW-compressors/hp: It's the pump (compressor) and pulley combination that
should be rated not
the motor, you can run a 2 stage, 400cfm pump with a 1/2 hp motor if the
pulley ratio is large enough, it just won't put out 400 cfm! On the other
hand a 10hp motor will not drive a 3 cfm Sleaze & Morebucks compressor to
20 cfm unless the pulley ratio is 2000 to 1 the other way, and then only
for a few seconds! A quality 15 - 20 cfm @ 90 psi compressor generally
needs 3-5 hp to run it; always will be 220v single or 3-phase. Think of
it like your car engine- displacement and rpm, the faster and or larger,
the more it puts out. Go to a professional autobody supply store, that's
where you'll find quality, no nonsense compressors for 500-1500$. nuf sed.
doug the boger.
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