Ok, I'm probably going to get 2,613 individual flames, but I feel
compelled to tell you my method of making flares. Keep in mind, that I'm
a University type who is climbing over the Senior hill, and may be at
this point somewhat overeducated. Perhaps this means we will communicate
effectively with numerous encrypted jokes.
When I designed the brake system for the Monster Spit I worked on a
few years ago, I had to make quite a few flares. The types that I made
I'll call Double and Mushroom, for lack of a better nomenclature system.
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-- Double -- -- Mushroom --
These were actually pretty easy to do; here's my method. I bought one of
the 'cheapest' flaring tools on the market. Similar ones are marketed by
MAC and SNAP-ON, and they really are cheap. And they ONLY cost $50-$80,
depending on who you buy them from. Well, after you get over the sticker
shock, and open the custom-crafted, injection molded red HDPE carrying
case,(included to make you feel better), you see the cheeziest assortment
of yucky chrome-plated tools you ever wanted to see. Well anyway, there
is a clamping bar set, with serrated half holes along the edge, to crimp
the shaft of the pipe you're attempting to flare. Then there's a
battery-clamp remover like tool, and an assortment of 'bits' to fit
various pipe sizes.
So here's my method.
FIRST slide the end fastener down onto the pipe, so that you only have
to do this flare once. (encrypted joke based on emperical evidence) Cut
the pipe off squarely, and trim the excess so the edge is clean. Securely
mount the pipe between the clamping bar set, and squeeze the whole
assembly into bench vise.
Light Acetylene torch, and heat exposed pipe end, (all 1/4" of it),
till it's good and red hot. Then place extremely weak, underdesigned,
worthless 'bit' over pipe end, and clamp with cheezy battery style
clamp... quickly now, so the pipe doesn't cool down too much. Now, if
you held the clamp in-line with the pipe, you'll have a perfect flare,
of whatever style you wanted to make. (actually, double flares are a
two-step process, but wholly similar).
I do have to mention that all the flares I have done with this
method have worked perfectly, and none have leaked. The only thing I
do differently from the instructions in the box is to heat the pipe. I
feel this is necessary, since the MAC man warned me that the bits were
extremely prone to breaking under normal use, and that he was very
accustomed to replacing them multiple times. He actually tried to
dissuade me from buying the kit for the reason that he doesn't like the
hassle associated with waranteeing the bits.
NOTE: from an Engineering standpoint, I have only tested the heating
method with steel-alloy pipes. Aluminum Alloy or copper should not
give the 'bits' as hard of a time, as the flow stress is lower.
Let me know how it works for you.
Greg
Greg Meboe meboe@wsuaix.csc.wsu.edu
Dept. of Mechanical and Materials Engineering
Washington State University, Pullman, Wa.
'67 Spit-6 '74 TR-6
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