>John, Of course you don't need to change the rear bearing. Just put
>some more of that "engine rebuild in a can" in your sump. Except this
>time, get the kind with the pellets in it. Throw a little bacon grease
>in for good measure, and take out an ad in the local classifieds.
> 19XX MGB, Fresh engine rebuild, good paint, top. Just needs
>a little engine work. $4500 Call 140 ring 2 and ask for John.
Oddly enough, I was serious about getting answers to my questions. I am
strapped for cash at the moment and need to make repairs on both cars, but
not at the same time. So, I need a running car while the other one is
being fixed. I am new to wrench-spinning and do NOT know the answers to
simple, stupid questions like this: "Is it going to hurt the engine to run
it with 4 new mains and all new big-end bearings for a WHILE, until I get
enough money to replace the 5th main bearing?" "Is the apparent lack of
results from replacing these bearings due to 1) It's the 5th bearing now
which is causing the pressure loss 2) It is something else which is
broken"
I tried the "rebuild in a can" because I didn't figure I had anything to
lose except a couple bucks (I knew we were going to change the oil in a
couple of days and wanted to see the effect). It is not because I
believe in miracle additives. I did all the other stuff up to dropping
the pan because I was following the list of possible causes in the Haynes
manual.
The question was never whether I didn't need, at some point, to change
the 5th bearing. Just if it would hurt to run it for a while. I am not
silly enough to think the 5th bearing is not as worn as the rest.
John M. Trindle | jtrindle@tsquare.com | Tidewater Sports Car Club
'73 MGB E Stock | '69 Spitfire E Stock | '88 RX-7 C Stock
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