James Arnold writes :
> I wonder if those with experience of tuned Spridgets would be so kind as to
> share it with me.
> I'm planning to build a fast road Midget, with as powerful an engine
> as is practical (both drivability and cost apply here). What I want to
> know is whether the gear box is going to handle the power/torque.
> Are straight cut g/boxes still round? and if so are they practical for a
> road car (No, I don't wear ear defenders usually).
> I imagine that I'll need to keep the back axle in place with something or
> other. Are anti tramp bar (a commonly advertised add-on in the UK) any good?
BRAKES:
Before you make your Spridget go fast, think about how you are going to make
your Spridget STOP. The brakes on a standard Midget are marginal at best,
the overheat very quickly, require high pedal pressures and don't stop
the car as well as they should, considering the lightness og a Spridget.
Get the Moss Performance Manual (I got it from The MG Center in Manchester),
and look at the different ways you can solve the problem (4-pot calipers,
drilled rotors, servo, Ferodo pads, Tilton pedal box etc). I personally have
MGB calipers, Spitfire rotors (with spacers), Aeroquip hoses and Ferodo pads
on the front on my Midget - makes a world of difference.
BACK AXLE:
You might have to get uprated axles shafts, I have seen axle shafts break,
although I have never experienced it. I still run the standard axle shafts,
and my engine put out approx 90 bhp.
The standard rear suspension design is pretty good and won't do anything
silly when you are least expecting it. I do not have anti-tramp bars and
I don't seem to need them, but I have installed a Panhard Rod to better
locate the axle (laterally). I have also installed the telescopic dampers.
WHEELS & TYRES:
I would certainly think about upgrading both wheels and tyres, as the standard
145/70R13 would not be able to cope with what you are planning. Think about
going to to 175/50 tyres such as the Pirelli P7.
Good luck
Gerry
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