> Chuck Centore writes:
> The front bolt is a suprisingly simple device
> > but the way they made it go through the frame and recess into the frame
> > sleeve is beyond tomorrow. The manual suggests that you screw a 5/16 x 24
> > bolt onto the head of this bolt and to withdraw the bolt by means of a lever
> > using the frame as a bearing surface.
> From: rcg@delphi.dseg.ti.com (bob gibbons)
> You're not going to want to hear this, but I had what sounds like an
> identical problem with the rear leaf springs on my '64 MGB. Nothing I
> could do would budge this bolt. I tried heat (propane torch), cold
> (liquid nitrogen), hydraulic press, nothing would budge this bolt.
I've seen mention of this TR3 problem here before- it's different than an
MGB- a bit tricky, and if rusted, a real problem. One comment for both of
these situations, regarding heat:
To truely do any good taking something frozen apart, you usually need more
heat than a propane torch, especially if there's much metal around the part
to act as a heat sink. In My Experience (IME), you usually have to heat the
nut or bolt (or both) to at least a dull red to do much good. This usually
requires an Oxi-Acytaline torch (or Oxi-Propane). A propane torch may never
be able to get a part hot enough, even when you heat it a long time. You can
usually heat a small area enough with Oxi-Acytaline quite quickly. This works
most of the time, but still not always. Then there's always very careful
cutting with torch, sawsall, or drilling...
You do have to be careful of grease, rubber parts, fuel lines, and other
burnables.
I've removed rusted MGB shackle bolts somewhat readily, but of course the old
rubber bushings get burned up in the process. (Best done outside, with an
extinguisher handy!)
________________________________________________________
Roger Garnett (Roger_Garnett@cornell.edu)
"The South Lansing Centre For Wayward Sports Cars"
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