In message <9407311050.tn415191@aol.com> writes:
> Hi gang,
>
> Received several good susgestions on improving the ride on the 3 and decided
> to undertake replacing the only item that appears to be original. "The rear
> leaf springs"
>
> I carefully read the manual and then proceeded to unbolt the old springs. The
> bolts to the lever shocks were removed without any real problems, as were the
> rear links amd bracket bolts holding the spring to the rear axile.
>
> Now comes the problem that I bet alot of you who really love to work on
> British cars have encountered. The front bolt is a suprisingly simple device
> but the way they made it go through the frame and recess into the frame
> sleeve is beyond tomorrow. The manual suggests that you screw a 5/16 x 24
> bolt onto the head of this bolt and to withdraw the bolt by means of a lever
> using the frame as a bearing surface. I bent the frame! It wont come out and
> thats when I lost it.
>
> I heated it with a tourch, I hammered it with a sledge hammer, I wonder if
> this is just one of those little things that make us all a little crazy.
>
> Anybody got any suggestions?
>
>
> Chuck Centore
>
> TR3 61@AOL.COM
>
You make me VERY GLAD that mine came out with WD40 & lots of leverage.
Now if you don't mind the dumb question.. why are you replacing them? If one
has a broken leaf, or they are de-arched so that there is space between the
leafs near the end. Well you just gotta do it. But if they look OK .. why
change them out? New springs will be harder & give a stiffer ride. New springs
will not have as much give and the rear wheel will lift off the road easier on
very hard cornering. After I learned that, I actually removed my new springs
and put my old ones back on. I noe have a new set holding up the wall to my
shed.
4U149572G, Land Rover 109 - 164000561
S,_&
h_&
31 May 1994 12:24:III
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