Doug Mitchell writes:
> > Look very carefully at the location that the trailing arms mount to the
> > frame. Very easy to get to, it's just behind the seats, and underneath
> > the car. If there is rust on these pieces, get up, dust yourself off,
> > and say 'Thanks, but no thanks'. Repairing/replacing these sections is
> > very time and labour intnsive, requiring up to a body off repair or a
> > new frame. I'd suspect that this is the case with that as a price.
> In general, the car was a total wreck. They'll problably sell it to some
> unsuspecting fool who wants a sports car in the worst way, 'cause that's
> what it is, the worst way.
This discussion about the TR6 problem areas made me go out and look at
a TR6 for sale here in Southern New Hampshire. The whole point of the
description that follows is I am trying to get a feel for what a decent
TR6 should cost out here. Yes, I'm looking for advice from the net
(I'm also hoping to get advice at the NET "Day of Triumph" on July 10
down in Brookline, MA.)
I am looking for a car that doesn't need rust repair, that looks
good, and runs well. (I'm tired of fixing the rust on the '73 Ford we
just sold...) Using Scott Fisher's "True Cost" theory, what should I
expect to pay for such a TR6? Spitfire? I have never owned an LBC,
although I've been a fan, and lurker on this list, for many years...
(This is the real question in this post, the rest tells of the TR6 I
looked at.)
The car was a '75 TR6 (CF 36289). It was being advertised for
$4995/bro. It turns out the car was in decent shape, with an
apparently solid body, and a decent engine.
The car had been repainted by a previous owner. (The current owners
have had the car nearly 3 years.) Original paint was what I think is
Wedgewood Blue (Paint code 126, trim 11). The repaint (BRG) was well
done; it was impossible to spot from 10ft away, but apparent on close
examination. The areas usually missed in a repaint (inside doors,
trunk, etc.) were all well done without missed areas showing blue
underneath. Yet, the paint job was clearly done some time ago, as
there were occasional rock chips on the rocket panels.
However, to a triumph fanatic, it was clearly repainted. The black
interior looked out-of-place on a BRG car. The repaint included the
back of the car (BRG, rather than black), yet, for some reason, they
left the winshield trim in the original black. Also, the entire engine
compartment was painted black. (wouldn't the inner fenders have
originally been the exterior color?)
This latter fact (engine compartment painting) made me think the car
was probably the subject of an older restoration. The frame was sound
from what I could tell without using a lift; the driver-side floor
showed minor surface rust under the "go" pedal. One thing I'd never
noticed before was that the front and rear outer fenders appeared to be
held on at the bottom (and at the top under the bonnet/boot lid) by
bolts with a big washer. Was that standard for a TR6?
The upholstery needed replacement -- the driver's seat had as much foam
showing as was covered; the passenger seat was intact, but getting
brittle. Engine compartment looked ok. Air cleaner cover had surface
rust and things weren't clean, but there wasn't sludge or oozing fluids
all over everything either.
Now, the test drive. The TR started right up (had been warm; met
owners outside a restaurant where they were going to eat). Good oil
pressure, smooth idle. Brakes firm, clutch pedal pushed *real* hard,
but worked ok. Off I went...
Turning out of the parking lot, driving an LBC for the first time in
a couple years, it became clear to me that I am going to need something
little, british, and convertible to fill that space in the garage left
by the '73 Ford. (Even though my Taurus has been quite happy to come
out of the snow into the garage...)
What a joy! The delightful note of the exhaust, the smell of the cool
evening air, the whole new perspective from sitting a foot lower than
usual, the unmistakeable feel of the road, the taste of freedom!
Eventually, however, I realized there was a job at hand, and
settled back down to business. Gauges all looked ok, but the odo
wasn't turning (owners had already warned me about this and that it
read 31K when they got it, just as it does still). Temp gauge was
awfully close to H, but owners had warned me about that too, and said
they had never seen it overheat. Electricals all worked, too!
Accelerated smoothly (other than my unpractised shifts) and braked in a
straight line. Everything ok, except a "clunk" from the left rear when
going over solid bumps in the road. (This is NH, where the plentiful
frost heaves are left unrepaired on rural roads...)
Back to the restaurant again. Boy, was it hard to get out!
But, with the engine off, and looking around the car again, reality
sets in. I realize that I want a car in better shape, and don't
have a great feel for what it should cost. At least, I tell myself, I
get to look at more before I have to decide...
--ken
Kenneth B. Streeter | ARPA: streeter@sanders.com
Lockheed Sanders | UUCP: ...!uunet!sanders.com!streeter
PTP2-A001 |
65 River Road | Voice: (603) 885-9604
Hudson, NH 03051 | Fax: (603) 885-0631
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