John wrote:
>
> Well, the '73 MBG runs. We do need to get the wiring straightened out
> (it has an aftermarket headlight switch to the right of the steering wheel,
> and you wouldn't BELIEVE the wiring. Or maybe you would <g>).
>
Yeah I would. I just bought a non-british sports car. In the first three
hours of ownership, I fixed the retractable leadlights, cooling fan, starter,
alternator, and brake lights. All these fixes took about $3 in parts, and I
removed 5 (!!) underdash switches and about 60 feet of PO installed wiring.
It's crap like this that causes me to jump on people here a bit when they
suggest doing something in a "not right" manner, which I souldn't do. The
people on this list are smart enough to do the "not right" thing in a correct
manner. The masses aren't quite as restrained. :>
> First, shocks. Does this year use the "oil shocks" I have heard about?
> The front shocks are not functioning at all,and I am getting seasick driving
> it <g>. What do I put in these shocks... that is, can I use motor oil, gear
> oil, or is there a special shock oil I need. ? Should I pull them off and
> inspect the seals first, or just fill them and hope for the best?
They are oil shocks, and refillable. Technicly they're supposed to have a
special shock oil. Seven Enterprises, which is right down the road from you,
should have the correct stuff. As far as seals, don't bother. Fill them up,
and hope for the best. If they're really dead, you may have to fill them
several times to get all of the air pockets out.
>
> Next, carburation. This particular car is using what looks like a single
> SU HIF. The car runs pretty well at initial start and going down the
> road. When I stop it for a few minutes, I don't get fire unless I hold the
> throttle wide open and keep cranking. There is no heat shield, and the
> exhaust sound like it is running rich (the idle drops if left to idle too
> long, too). Leaving the car alone for 20 minutes or so lets it start up.
A 73 is supposed to have twin HIF4's. Not much to comment on until we know
exactly what's on this car. What's the bore of the carb (1.5 or 1.75)? Is
it an SU or a ZS? What sort of exhaust manifold does it have? Is the
exhaust and intake a single casting with two downpipes?
>
> My speedometer works but my odometer doesn't. Can I fix by opening the
> speedometer, or should I take the gage to a shope?
>
Usually it's a stripped gear in the drive. Open it if you want. If all else
fails, there is a shop in Norfolk that fixes Smiths speedos. Auto Electric
at the corner of 30th and Church.
> Last, I have a front end shimmy from 47-52 indicated MPH. I suspect the car
>needs
> wheel balancing, but could this also have to do with or be aggravated by the
> lack of damping? The effect disappears above and below that speed range. It
> is pretty severe!
>
Yep, the dead shocks will amplify any dynamic imbalance. Most likely your
tires are out of balance, and the dead shocks are allowing them to get the
upper hand; shaking the whole front of the car.
> ...John Trindle
> (ftf03.larc.nasa.gov, Hampton, VA)
Randy
randy@taylor.wyvern.com
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