>
> had been stolen, so he had a distributor from a much earlier B
> on the car, and it was badly worn. I replaced it with a Mallory,
> and replaced the old coil with a Bosch blue. And didn't think
> any further about wiring. That was, oh, 7-8 years ago, I'd
> guess. Damned thing never did develop much of a hefty spark,
> though. Now I think I know why. All of the resistive system
> was still in place, ready to run the EI system. Now that the
> resistive system has apparently pooped (still to be determined,
> I guess), a thought comes to mind. Why not bypass the whole
> poop? The wiring diagrams for older, points-only systems
> indicate no resistive system, and heaven knows the Bosch
> blue doesn't need it.
> I'm gonna try it - unless somebody writes to say that I
> shouldn't. No GIANT rush at this point. Yesterday I was prone.
> Today I can manage a few steps here and there, but NO LBC
> work. I don't expect to be able to touch the car until
> mid-week, if that.
> Again, thanks to all for the advice!
> later, alligators
> Lynnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn
>
Hmmm, I should have asked about this, as you didn't mention the zillion
other wires for the elctronics. The original Opus EI used in this era car
failed, no question about it. Pretty much 100% failure rate within the
first 5 years. The standard fix was to put in a Allision or Piranha
aftermarket electronic unit, keeping the original distibutor and coil. Some
put in an earlier points distributor, but this never worked well. See the
earlier thread on advance curves. :>
A Bosch SuperBlue coil does not want a ballast resistor. None at all. The
easiest fix for you right now would be to disable the resitive wire, and all
of the W/LG wiring. Then run a wire from a White wire (bundle where the
resistor started, or the fuse block, or the ign. relay) directly to the coil
positive, and one wire from the coil negative to the distributor. That will
get the ignition up and going. You need one more wire on the negative side.
This is the tach pulse feed wire. It's one of the W/B wires. A little trial
and error should tell which one. :>
Randy
randy@taylor.wyvern.com
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