In your message you write:
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 23 Mar 94 14:05:42 +0000
> From: sga1@ukc.ac.uk
> Subject: Mini questions
>
>
> I'm looking for carb suggestions for my 1275cc Mini. It's got a 1275 GT block
> with a gas flowed Cooper head (std valve sizes). I think that the GT came with
> HS4s is standard form but I was thinking an HS6 would be more appropriate.
> Trouble is I'm on a budget and HS6s aren't very common (compared to HS4s) down
> the scrapyard. Could I get two HS4s and make up my own linkages etc to make a
> twin-carb? Has anyone else done (or tried) this. The problem I can see is that
> the float chamber will be on the 'wrong' side on one of the carbs but I
>haven't
> been able to look at one 'on the shelf' so to speak to see if this will really
> be a problem.
For a street car, an HS6 on a Mini Spares manifold would definitely
be the way to go. In fact, on engines up to around 90 hp or so, a
single HS6 would be the way to go. You can get HS6 carbs from
volvos...I have a couple from a volvo which work fine, you just have
to use the appropriate needle. A single HS6 on a good manifold will
be equal or superior to two HS4s in the HP and torque range your
engine will generate. The manifold for the single HS6 is much
better than the twin HS4 manifold. Your linkage will also be
simpler.
Two HS4s will work just fine and the linkage pieces are readily
available. I raced my mini with twin HS4s(modified internally) and
they worked fine. Just don't throughbore them for street use. On
my twin HS4s, the float bowls face the fenders. This is not a
problem. I do have a custom air cleaner assembly, which uses two
K&N filters and clears the firewall.
>
> Whichever carb I get I suppose a spell on the rolling road is in order to
> select the correct needle and ignition timing.
>
absolutely...
> In a similar vain my '66 850cc only has an HS2, would it be beneficial
>putting
> a 998cc head and HS4 carb on or will I run into problems with needle selection
> and timing? I don't wan't to put a larger engine in for my own reasons.
>
It will benefit if you increase the compression somewhat and more
so, if you put an appropriate cam to take advantage of the better
breathing. You will also want to put in an LCB header.
> My 850 is also noisy in neutral especially when I put the clutch down - worn
> idler bearings? The gearchange is of the magic wand variety (direct to the
>box)
> is it possible to change the gearbox for a newer one still keeping this
> gearchange set up?
>
The clutch throwout bearing could be worn...I would check that
first. You can replace that bearing with the power unit in the car.
You just have to jack up the drivers side of the engine (rhd). If
that does not solve your problem, it could be the idler bearing, and
it could be at the primary gear. Either one means pull the power
unit NOW. If you let the noise continue and it is the idler
bearings, you will destroy the transfer case and possibly the trans
case. You will also put aluminum shrapnel everywhere in the power
unit. A friend of mine let this go and when we rebuilt his trans,
all the bronze bushing in the diff and the diff side covers needed
replacement due to aluminum eating up the bushings.
> While I'm on the subject, the Mini has hydrolastic suspension but when
> I got it pumped up the front wouldn't come up to height (without
> getting silly on the back) The bloke at the garage (a good garage
> aswell) suggested that the front nuckle joints had worn down. There is
> quite a large difference between front and back so I thought it is
> more likely to be old and worn rear helper springs, any suggestions
> (apart from changing to dry)?
>
>
You really need to pull the knuckle joints and look at their
condition and the condition of the plastic cups in which they ride.
If the cups in which they ride have worn, this could
easily cause the suspension to drop. In addition, if the cups have
worn, you must replace them or their will be metal to metal friction
with the suspension arm. Remember the 3 to 1 ratio on the front
suspension. 1/3 of inch of travel at the knuckle joint translates
to 1 inch of ride height. So...replace and regrease those cups.
I am assuming that the garage who serviced your hydro evacuated the
system prior to repressurizing. If he did so, then a height
difference front to rear is likely to be knuckle joints, since on the
hydro system, the right front and right rear are connected and the
left front and left rear...
> Thanks in advance > Steve 'brakes seem fine to me' Adderson.
>
Jim
jfuerstenberg@dcmdc.dla.mil
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