Robert Jones writes:
> One of the other
>things I am considering stripping off and putting on my car is the
>wire wheels. How much work is that? The rears seem like they would
>be pretty easy, just swap axels, but the fronts may be more work.
I have done this conversion on two different MGB's, and contrary to
what everyone has told me (I'm hard-headed) about the rears, you do NOT
have to swap the axles. It is much easier than that - the hubs will pull
off of the wire-wheel axle and bolt up to the disc-wheel axle.
The only thing to consider is the fact that a splined hub is *longer*
in length than a disc-wheeled hub (maybe wider is a better description).
Therefore, installing the splined hub on the disc-wheeled axle will cause
the rear wheels to sit *wider* in terms of stance. Depending on what size
tire you are running, you may have some rubbing of tire against the inside
of the fenderwell. If memory serves me, the ww hub is about 1.5 inches
longer than the disc hub.
The fronts are somewhat more difficult since you have to mess with the wheel
bearings and the end caps. IF you can get the end caps off and the cotter
pin which holds the bearing nut out, then you can pull the complete hub off
bearings and all. Next you get to re-assemble the hub (and shims) on your
car. That's the fun part - using the correct number/thickness of shims.
>I live about a mile from Dayton
>Wire Wheel, but at $150-$250 per wheel for total restoration, I may just get
>them sandblasted and painted instead.
I also took some used wires I bought to Dayton Wire Wheel and I had the
same reaction. Instead, I ended up buying some more until I had 4 good
wheels and 1 semi-good wheel. I had them all sandblasted and then primed
and painted them myself. As for replacing spokes, you may be better off
letting a professional handle it.
>I'll probably have a bunch of parts for sale shortly...
Let me know what you have, especially the guages. I'm not too far away -
down the road in Cincy.
Steve
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