.>On Wed, 12 Jan 1994, Roland Dudley wrote:
.> Another twist in the "erratic running snake mystery". Last night I
.> decided to check a couple of things and discovered that the battery was
.> completely dead. Suspiciouser and suspicouser. Well, this could have
.> been simple dumbness I my part. Because the ignition warning light
.> stayed on when I removed the key, I decided to leave the key inserted
.> with the switch in the accessories position so that the light would stay
.> off. I have no idea why this would drain the battery. Nothing was on
.> and I assume the ignition circuitry was disconnected in this mode. So,
.> I'm either over looking something obvious here or the ignition switch is
.> hosed even more than I thought. Anyway, I removed the battery ground
>Seems your ignition switch is hosed, indeed. Something inside has come
>adrift. Betcha $0.39 this is the entire problem, and that there is
>intermittant and/or high resistance contact to the "run" position
>connection.
>You know the warning light should not stay on when the key is out, and at
>Ray (Post hoc, ergo propter hoc) Gibbons
Roland,
If you have the typical Ford 4 wire ( 2 big 2 small ) solenoid,
perhaps the ignition boost portion is stuck. I had a problem on my
68 Fairlane where the solenoid stayed on and exploded the coil over
night. You might also see that the car might not want to turn off
when you turn off the key. To test just remove the small wire that
puts 12 volts on the (bat) terminal of the coil. Also if the car
ever starts hard when cold it may not be closing and attempting to
start with a weak spark.
Bill
All mine , noone elses..... Bullet birds forever.
I'll always drive cars with round headlights and a set of points.
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