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Re: Triumph TR6 neophyte questions...

To: zimerman@MIT.EDU, british-cars@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Triumph TR6 neophyte questions...
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman" <twakeman@apple.com>
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 93 14:27:46 -0800
In message <9312232141.AA11878@al-burro.MIT.EDU> 
-------------------------------------------------------------------- writes:
> 
> Hello all! (de-lurking at last)
> 
> I am the proud new owner of a '71 TR6, and although the car is in great shape
> for any old '71, it is not in wonderful shape for the wonderful car that I
> have found it is.  I have ordered a catalog from Victoria British, from whom

Be sure to get on The Roadster Factory's mail list.  Their Famous Winter sale is
coming soon.  
> 
> I intend to order manuals,

Sounds like you need to order the owner's manual as well.
> 
> 1)  Does this car use unleaded gasoline?  Or do I need to give her additives?

Easiest way to check is to look at the fuel filler.  If the opening narrows down
and there is a sign that says unleaded only, then use unleaded only.  The other 
rule of thumb is if you have a catalytic converter, use unleaded only, if not 
anything that will keep the engine running can be used.

> 2)  In initiating myself into the SOL by wrestling with the spaghetti under
>     her dash, I found that I couldn't find anything that looked like 
> instrument
>     lighting, although I haven't had the time to yank the dash.  On the other 
>   
>     hand, there is a knob in the middle of the secondary gauges that looks
>     suspiciously like a dimmer.  It isn't connected to anything at all at the
>     moment.  Is this indeed a dimmer, which would mean there *are* lights I
>     haven't found?

?????? wait for the manuals or for some kind SOL to FAX you the pertinate pages

> 3)  What is the best method of coping with rust?  There are no really major
>     patches, and from crawling underneath it appears that the frame is rusty  
> 
>     but so far no real penetration.  Since this is Boston, winter, I would 
> love
>     to have the peace of mind of having made some effort to forestall 
> disaster.

The only way to stop it is to remove it.  This means sand blasting ot the equiv,
using a phosphoric acid based metal treatment, repainting then undercoating.

On the otherhand, if its LIGHT surface rust, you can have the car stram cleane; 
put rust converter stuff on it; paint it then undercoat it.

Notice I kept writing paint then undercoat.  My TR3A evidently came from the 
factory undercoated.  The wheelwells were painted under the undercoating but the
underside of the body was not.  The undercoating on the unpainted surface did 
not hold up to 30 years of use anywhere near as well as that coated over paint.

> 4)  Having traced 90% of my Lucas problems to the fuse box and related 
> connect-
>     ors, how easily replaced is it?

Do you want to replace it of just clean up the connectors?  Replacement should 
be easy, but 90% of electrical problems not caused by POs can be traced to 
corroded connections.

> 5)  Does anyone from Lucas have a known location where I could send them a 
> tape
>     of me giving them a big, fat, juicy raspberry?

No but I would like to have done that to Bosh when I had a SAAB.
> 
> Thanks for your patience!  I *love* my TR6. God, it feels nice to say that 
> and
> not have people laugh at me...:-)
> 
> -JBZimmerman!
>

Take care,

TeriAnn


TeriAnn Wakeman             One of these days, I'll be old enough that
twakeman@apple.com          people will stop calling me crazy and start
LINK: TWAKEMAN              calling me eccentric.
408-974-2344        TR3A - TS75519L, MGBGT - GHD4U149572G, 109 - 164000561



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