> My 1980 MGB with a ZS carb doesn't want to idle at a sensible speed and I'm
> hoping someone can give me some pointers.
[symptoms deleted...]
> I hope this makes sense because its confusing me and I don't want to blindly
> start taking things apart in the hope of bumping into the problem. Any clues?
It sounds almost as though something was sticking in the throttle linkage.
A big air leak would probably cause the car to want to die, because it
would lean it out. Does your '80 have a throttle positioning solenoid
that causes the throttle to close more slowly when you let off, like many
other cars did in the early days of smog control? Other possibilities
would be something making the button in the throttle butterfly stay open,
if the Z-S is so equipped.
> Another thing, when I registered the car there was no problem with the
>VIN number and I have records from new so I know it's the right number. However
> my insurance company tells me that their computer says the VIN number is for
> an MG Midget. I'm no expert but I can tell the difference between a "B" and
> a "midget". Anyone heard of something like this before? I'm a bit concerned
> in case the car is stolen since the insurance company might try to pay me
> for a midget (which is probably less $$$).
What's your car's VIN? It should be GHN5Ux######G, where x is either a K
or an L (I can't now recall whether they skipped over I in 1978 to avoid
confusion with 1). The ### of course is the six-digit number. Midget
VINs are GAN5Ux[etc.]. If your insurance company claims that a GHN5 number
is a Midget, they are mistaken. To document this, refer to the following:
- The Moss Motors catalogues, which have model year identification
information in them so that people can order the correct parts
for their specific vehicle
- The Victoria British catalogues, likewise (both the MM and the VB
catalogues are free, by the way)
- Lindsay Porter's Guide To Purchase & DIY Restoration for the MGB,
Haynes Motorbooks, which contains a full breakdown of VINs for MGBs
of all years, with an eye towards identification and parts ordering
If your car *does* have a GAN5 number, you in a HEAP o' trouble... But
assuming the insurance company is full of Cornish pasties, start by
researching your car and sending them copies of all the documentation you
have proving that you're right. You can also send something like $40 to
Anders Ditlev Clausager, the archivist for the British Motor Heritage Trust
or some such name; they will give you a complete build sheet and list of
options, equipment, dates and the like for your car. That should satisfy
the insurance company.
> Finally, recently people have been writing about getting the heater in TR's to
> work. Well under the dash on my MG there's a lever which seems to open and
> close some kind of air vent. What's this for? Whether it's open or closed,
>and I don't know which position is which, I still seem to get cold air blowing
> in. Neither position seems to change the way the heater works.
It is a fresh-air duct, and it *does* make a difference. It's been so long
since I've had the top up that I now can't remember what or where. If you
sit upside down in the driver's seat, you'll be able to see what it does.
--Scott
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