Dashes
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Roland Dudley writes:
> > try and let the stripper do its job. If it's really hard,
> > paint on the stripper and wrap the dash in aluminum foil to
> > hold in the fumes. Wear gloves, and use disposable brushes.
>
> Wax paper works well at this stage. It has the added advantage of
> being transparent. This makes it easier to work the stripper around
> with the covering in place.
Good idea!
> A couple of prep comments: wet the surface and let it dry before
> final sanding. This will raise the grain. Minor dents and gouges
The varsol will raise the grain as water... I'm not a fan of putting
water near wood, but if you do, I would use a spray bottle or a damp
sponge to prevent soaking the wood.
> can be removed from wood by putting a piece of damp cloth or cotton over
> the spot and heating it with a soldering iron. Just be careful not
> to scorch.
YAGI! (Yet another good idea!)
Bondo
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> > Just say no to Bondo
>
> Bondo works fine if it's properly applied.
I've heard this, and believe it, but my concern was in the task of
removing the bondo someday. Isn't removing bondo a difficult thing?
I've never had the pleasure, but I guess it all depends on how much
and where. So what is the proper method of installation? Thin and
don't just glop it on?
SOL Laws
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Daren Stone wrote:
> "The probability that you will break off or strip
> out an obscure fastener which retains a part necessary
> to drive the car is directly proportional to the number
> of open stores at that time and in the immediate area
> that stock this fastener. NOTE: this law is also related
> to the need to drive the car. It is rendered null if the
> car does not need to be driven, and is squared if it is
> your only vehicle."
Great daren, just great. Don't tell my TR6 this, as it IS my only
car! And if you dream about this, I don't want to know! :-) I
wonder how many whitworth fastener stores there are in Boulder?
Cheers, and remember, no matter where you are, there you go.
-Scotty
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