>> My $.02 is that if you do use copper that you anneal (sp) it by heating
>> it red-hot and then quenching it in cold water. I did this with my TR6
>> on the fuel line from the fuel pump to the carbs following the "stock"
>> fuel line route. 5 years and around 30K miles and it still works.
>
>Why bother? Steel brake line is readily available, is tough as nails and
>bends easily with a proper tool. I did the whole fuel system on the Europa
>with 1/4" and 5/16" steel brake line and flexible fuel hose.
Steel corrodes (eventually). Trust me, steel lines can let you
down, and do. Great fun...
The "copper" lines I've seen advertised in british car mags appear
to be a copper-nickel alloy, not pure copper. There are also "copper-clad"
lines I think - copper exterior to reduce rust (maybe interior too, my memory
is vague on that one). These differences may make them reasonable for
high-pressure/vibration conditions. I think the lines may be thicker-walled,
too.
On my TR6 with electrical problems, I had the parking lights and
dash lights go out one night recently. Bad connection at the fuse. Found
out one reason the previous owner had melted lines - 50 amp instead of 35 amp
fuse. Probably went like this: "well, I keep blowing that darn fuse! Guess
it needs a bigger one. Hand me the biggest fuse ya got, son!" ... <sizzle>
Well, I'm not sure that's how it happened, but it wouldn't suprise me.
I'm ordering a lot of little electrical stuff from TRF RSN (still going
through the catalog and deciding what I need).
Has anyone every had the hazard _switch_ fail? It seems to have no
effect - at least it should cut the connection for the normal flasher circuit.
As best I can tell (hard to see), it's all hooked up, and a BITCH to get out
(the instructions start with "remove the tach or speedometer, whichever you
prefer").
My seats don't latch down in the back. From looking at it, it appears
that the catches are about .3-.5 inches too far back to possibly engage. At
the front, there appear to be two holes that seat could mount with (and
pivot on). Does someone with a TR6 ('70) know which hole the pivot bolt goes
in? I'd guess the further rear of the two; currently its in the front hole.
It's not that big a deal; the seats aren't going anywhere even unlatched.
Lastly, I'd like some 3-point belts for the '6 (preferably inertial,
or at least retracting). Right now it has ancient lap belts, and they don't
exactly make me feel safe. The TRF catalog says that 3-point belts (of any
kind) aren't available, though they have numbers for them. Anyone have any
newer info or leads on belts?
Randell Jesup
'70 TR6, ugly Sienna, 157K miles (4K from me), _maybe_ only 57K miles, but I
doubt it.
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