Well, I have been lurking lately and figure I should pump out a bit of
information (since I also want to ask some questions)
The Rotoflex ordeal:
As some of you may remember, I had a rotoflex bolt break a few months ago when
I lowered (dropped) my GT6+ off a hydraulic jack. The rotoflexs needed
replacing anyway, so I dove into the job head first. I had been having a
vibration from the rear end on neutral throttle that increased with increasing
road speed. I was hoping that the problem was not the differential, and that
it could be fixed fairly cheaply.
The best advice I was given was to buy a press, and it would pay for
itself immediately. It's true. I didn't buy one, and am now in the market
for one so I can install the TRF front suspension rebuild kit.
Getting the rotoflex bolts out wasn't too bad, and since I was installing
new rotoflexs, I didn't have to compress the old ones. When I pull the diff out
in the future, I'm just going to unbolt the ujoints from the diff, and pull
the whole hub, rotoflex, wishbone, driveshaft assembly in one piece. That
way seems like a minimum of hassle if you don't need to disassemble those
components.
The right driveshaft ujoint was really bad, and the PO had replaced some of
the rotoflex bolts with the wrong length ones on that side. I relaced both
ujoints since I had it apart, though the left one was OK. In addition,
there was a lot of slop in the right wishbone to vertical link connection.
I didn't fix that, though I should have. I don't know if that would be the
cause of, or effect of, the bad ujoint on that side. The left connection
was fine, but the bolt feels like it's permanently welded to the inside of
the vertical link on that side.
I got it back together and have about 1500 miles on the car since. I didn't
replace the driveshaft ujoints, because I knew I'd have to pull the diff soon
anyway. Every point on the diff that could possibly leak, does. There is
RTV oozing from a few points, obviously the PO had it apart. The vibration
problem is still there, and getting worse. I figure by December I'll have to
pull the diff for at least examination and seals and check the driveshaft
ujoints.
Blinker Stuff:
Someone noted recently that some MG blinkers have the hazard switch in the
same circuit. Same for the GT6+. The first time I flipped it,the hazard
switch destructed and no blinkers. So for the time being I wired around it,
but soon I'll have to replace it as that seems to be one of the more important
components on the car. (along with the fire extinguisher) :-\
Speaking of which, I was getting an occasional puff of smoke out from under
the dash. The other day it was a really big cloud of smoke, and I was
forced to investigate. The blinker wiring was bared and shorting in the
steering column. No problem, except when I pulled the blinker switch out,
the little spring broke in half.
Does anyone have a source for the little spring without having to buy the
whole blinker switch???
Interior smell stuff:
When I get my interior apart next time, I'm doing the Chris K. mod, with the
insulite material under the carpets. Also, the fumes are bad, so I'll seal
the trans tunnel as well. Interestingly enough, with the windows closed and
the heater on, there is no smell of fumes. But with the window down (as it
usually is so I can give hand signals) the fumes are intense enough to lower
your IQ after about 20 miles of driving.
Tranny oil question:
I saw PhilE recommend 30W non detergent for someones MG trans. Is that what
I should be using? My trans was rebuilt recently before I got the car, and
I want it to last as long as possible. They certainly seem to get hot,
judging by the temperature of the stick. Does this heat come mainly from the
trans itself, or the engine and exhaust???
- Chris
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