I went ahead and pulled the engine out of the MGC yesterday in
order to change the clutch setup. Seems it has a 9 1/4" disk in it. Am
ordering the new setup from a local parts store as both Moss and VB are
overly expensive for the same items. Anyway, after pulling the engine,
I'm going to detail it and the engine compartment. I have a lot of rust
stains on the engine from where the radiator has overflown a few times.
Anyone know what the best method (besides hot-tanking the engine) is for
getting rid of these stains? Just bunches of elbow grease?
--
-----------------------------------------------------------
| "Theater is Life, Gary L. Berry |
| Film is Art, glb@s1.gov |
| Television is Furniture" |
-----------------------------------------------------------
From rwg1@cornell.edu Tue Sep 11 11:47:03 2001
From: (Roger Garnett) rwg1@cornell.edu
To: crfirth@chris7.b17b.ingr.com (Chris Firth), british-cars@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1993 13:01:46
Subject: Re: MGB indicator problem
> '79 MGB
> The indicators have stopped working within two weeks of owning
> the car.
> Checked are the fuses and the bulbs
On most British cars, the next thing to check would be the grounds to the
lights, and the switch on the column, plus the flasher unit. On later
MGB's, (All with rocker instead of toggle switches, I think), there's one
more gotcha, which is likely your problem. The 4-way flasher switch.
They routed the turn signals through the 4-way switch, and if (when,
actually) it fails, no turn signals. It quite often fails one side at a
time, as well. These B.F.L. era rocker switches use a touch contact
system, rather than a wiping contact. A wiping contact "self cleans" to
some extent, while the touch contact gradually builds up corrosion, is
very prone to pitting from arcing. They almost all fail at some point, and
are expensive to replace. But, with some care, they *can* almost always be
repaired by the mechanicly adept!
Inside, there's a spring loaded copper or brass strip, which makes contact
with the edge of tabs coming up from the wiring posts. With a couple
small screwdrivers, You can gently spread the body, and prise the rocker
out of the switch. Clean and polish all of the contact areas with a pencil
eraser, or fine sand paper if badly pitted. Make sure all sontact surfaces
will still touch, then reassemble, and lubricate with WD40. Always test
before re-installing, just in case you missed something. A properly
repaired switch should last about as long as a new one.
Roger
________
/___ _ \ Roger Garnett (Roger-Garnett@cornell.edu)
/| || \ \ Agricultural Economics | "The South Lansing Centre
| |___|| _ | 3 Warren Hall | For Wayward Sports Cars"
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