"routine maintenance" part 2 on my vintage mini.
Well, using my friends factory puller, the smoke wrench and the
previously mentioned BL special adjustment tool, we pulled the flywheel last
night. It only left a little of the flywheel on the crank nose. I
spent some time lapping the flywheel on the crank with valve
grinding compound to smooth things out(this is the recommended
method) but am wondering whether a little never-seize on the crank
would be a good idea...any ideas out there? I wouldn't think the
flywheel would loosen up, we do torque it to 150ft lbs.
My desire to redrill all the engine to trans mounting bolt holes
>from 1/4 to 5/16 was reinforced as I found two of the 1/4 bolts had
sheared their heads from the bolt shank...luckily, I was able to
easily remove the broken shank with a drill. Any theories, ideas
whether 1/4' allen head bolts are stronger than grade 5 hex bolts.
Three races seems a short life for bolts...but that is why folks
switch to the larger ones. nothing like 7500+rpm and 13.5 to 1 to
stress those little suckers.
tonight I change the engine/trans and flywheel housing gaskets,
replace all the aforementioned bolts, even if they look ok and
start putting the power unit back in the car. I may yet make
the British Car Festival at Oakton Community College.
Jim
jfuerstenberg@dcmdc.dla.mil or
jfuerstenberg@zz-link.dcmdc.dla.mil
"giving money and power to congress is like giving whiskey and car
keys to a teenage boy."
P.J. O'Rourke from Parliment of Whores.
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