>
>4) I run a compression check every fall and last year it was fine. Last night
>I checked it out and it looks like trouble: 180, 105, 160, 165. Adding oil to
> the bad cylinder gave no change in the values.
> Will one low cylinder cause it to run hot? Whats the net wisdom concerning
>the
> best approach to fixing this? Am I crazy to keep driving it? Should I
>replace
> all the valves in the head? or is it just a blown head gasket?
>
> Avoiding Traffic
>
> Bruce Hamper
>
> bchamp@ccmail.monsanto.com
>
>
I can sympathize- My 68 B also runs hot in summer for no real good reason.
However, your compression numbers don't look too good. It's probably ok to
keep driving in the short term, but you will need to pull the head to see
what's what. You may see something obvious indicating a bad head gasket,
but more likely you have a burned valve or two.
Any machine shop that will recondition the head will tell you which valves
are bad, or you can get a valve spring compressor and look for yourself.
If you can trust your machine shop, I'd just put the head in for a valve
grind, and see what they come back to you with.
I don't remember which cylinders are close together- I think it's the
middle two. If I'm wrong, and you have a gasket leak between the first
two you might want to have the head surfaced, and countersink the head
studs in the block slightly.
I was in your position about 8 years ago. I put the head in the shop with
instructions for a valve grind only. They managed to drop the head and
break the thermostat housing, and I refused to accept their weld job.
Instead they gave me another head that happened to have new valve guides.
Ever since, my car hasn't burned oil, only leaked it.
-Jean H
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