The other day someone mentioned a need for '51 TD keys.
I have worked with a local locksmith for door and ignition keys
for 3 MBG's and two MkII Spits in the last three years and have
been very pleased with their work. Usually they just worked with
the numbers and once they keyed an ignition with a file and a key
blank.
I stopped by this morning and asked if they would be interested
in any mail order business. They do mail order business around
the state on a regular basis......keys are inexpensive to
send....!
I'm sure you may find a locksmith of this caliber in your
area...but if your stuck with Moss as your only mail order option
with a minimum order etc. give Sharp's a try...a good family
owned business and their fast and accurate.
Sharp's Locksmith
507 West Mary
Austin, Texas 78704-4247
Locksmith; Norman, Geneva Sharp / Philip, Steven Sharp
They quoted me the following:
British Leyland (or "Furyn") Ignition or door keys
by the numbers...
$ 12.50 + 8% Sales tax + $ 1.00 shipping...
for the first key, $2.75 Ea. add'l key copy.
I guess if its out of state no sales tax?
Anyway FYI..they don't take plastic but check or M.O. OK.
All this talk of sweatshirts and Waxol not flowing at
temperatures below 70-80 degrees F, makes me a little jealous of
you folks in nice cool weather..finishing up a 2+ yr. rolling
chassis nut and bolt restoration on a '71 B and its nearing 100
degrees with high humidity as of late down here in central texas.
And yes I agree the '68-'71's are nice cars with a good evolution
of the marque and still with that lovely little "H" engine..I
like this '71 since it is Chassis # 248950 it is still a '71
manufactured in May of '71 but with none of the '72 changes..like
low compression engine etc.
'71 B (22 blonde and beautiful a new car which happens to be for
sale !), '68 B, '73 Bgt, and '67 MkII Spit (parts car if anyone
needs one)
To add to available MkII parts this Spitfire is a pretty complete
pile of parts with rust in floors and no wiring harness. And
willing to leave my stable for whatever its worth to someone
needing a stack of used parts....inc. power train and second
early Spit MkI rear-end etc..
RE; SOL goodies, I'd like to see window stickers similar to AMGBA
octagon in size, IE; 2-3" diameter..
RE; >What to do when starting a car that's been sitting a while..
1.) Well first pull out all the spark plugs and pour plenty of
(a few tablespoons worth) lightweight engine oil or Marvel
Mystery Oil down into the cylinders (replace plugs) and let it
sit for a day or two, or do this every few days and let sit
several days..slowly turn the engine over (easier with plugs out)
by hand with a wrench on crankshaft, or on a '51 TD (with a
crank?!) and be sure it is turning easily.
2.) Change oil, drain GAS if any left (often YUKY varnishy
stuff). If bad in the tank take tank out and clean and inspect
it. I sometimes use a small gravity flow tank or funnel mounted
above the carburetors to give the car clean fuel for starting.
Before hassling with the clean the tank procedure.
3.) Open up those carb bowls and take a peek, often varnishy
fuel will clog the lines and/or carbs. Also check the fuel pump
for sediment (careful not to damage the rubber diaphragm, or be
prepared to replace it, it may crack on opening the pump). I
usually run the carbs through the awful Chem-Tool cleaner bucket
(Yuk hold your breath) after disassembling and inspecting them.
Saves many a hassle in getting it running well if the carbs are
whistle clean..,
4.) Often the lines from the tank to the carbs will get blocked
by varnishy yuky fuel junk. Check fuel flow into a container
before it gets to the carb and be sure its clean once tank and
carbs are clean and ready for fuel.
5.) Avoid some of (2-4) if fuel was drained prior to storage!!
usually not from my experiences..
6.) Change fluids, get new plugs, check for spark at points in
distributor....check points!! Check static timing if you still
have patience.....get that starter muscled back in there. With
plugs pulled out and new oil in engine and rocker cover off, spin
it around on the starter and be sure you have oil pumping up
around the rockers (and your face, if lots of oil
pressure!). Put plugs back in and.....fire the bugger
up......check oil pressure watch how it climbs, check cooling
etc.. Before going anywhere....good idea to replace all rubber
seals in the brake system....for life's sake...at least change
brake fluid and re-bleed move cautiously till brake hydraulics
re-done...
7.) Once hot and running, flush the radiator and refill again
with correct mixture... and flush the oil once more *hot*
Its' fun, I've certainly enjoyed the resurrections I've worked
with...especially when they get going ...OH....Lucas...yes he may
have had some fun with your car under that tree (in the guise of
a field mouse or rat !)...I have run one wire from the battery
hot side direct to the coil and then a wire directly to the
distributor when electrics were not being friendly...although DO
NOT leave a hot wire on the coil for more than a minute without
running it...I did have a coil blow up on me once....but it does
get the car around the block in a pinch.
Well...lengthy ramble but, did I forget anything? I hope others
catch anything I did not mention. There may be others who need
this resurection guide...I did some restoration on a '48 TC a few
years ago in Ashland, Oregon after the owner tried to start the
engine from a 15 year storage with no oil down the
cylinders...the engine quickly became a problem before he could
get it home...
Oh...Doug...hopefully you can find a source for those Distributor
springs...they are elusive....I tried to E-Mail you but something
was wrong with my "syntax"....anyone with spring leads please post
or..Doug.drop me a line, i would like to join in on your order for three
pairs of springs.... ! thanks
Jim Fink
E-Mail to: RTIK207@utxvms.cc.utexas.edu
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