> From: pat@fegmania.wustl.edu (Patrick Niemeyer)
> Subject: '66 Spitfire - stalling problem
> I have a '66 Spitfire that has some kind of intermittant
> stalling problem. It runs beautifully until it warms up, then
> begins to sputter. It really feels like a fuel problem, lurching
> and then cutting out repeatedly... and pulling the choke all the
> way out does have a big affect.
Number one, if pulling out the choke has a positive effect on the
way the car runs, try enrichening the mixture. Choke out means
more gas so if the car runs better you are too lean. To richen the
mixture wind the flat nuts below the SU's a couple of flats at a
time, remembering to try and keep them balanced.
Number two, if this does not work (and I suspect it will) try a new
ignition coil. When a coil is bad, it is terribly heat sensitive
or the coil may still be good, but just be positioned too close to,
say, the exhaust manifold.
> From: Peter Lee <petel@cs.cmu.edu>
> Subject: now a stuck bearing
>
> Tomorrow morning, I'm going to track down the replacement bearings and then
> by a Big Hammer and also a Big Slide Hammer. I'm going to try very very
> hard to knock the old bearings off. If I fail, and determine that the old
> bearings are welded on, then I will have to remove the stub axle and take
> it to a machine shop and hope that they can cut the bearings off. This
> will undoubtedly cause major damage to the stub axle, which will mean that
> at best I will only be able to limp home. Maybe, just maybe, I will be
> able to find a stub axle at a junkyard. Whatever happens, removing the
> spindle will mean doing a realignment, which just adds the work.
>
> Let's all pray that Wailing on the Big Hammer does the trick.
>
> Or, can anyone think of something better? Perhaps some heat? Someone else
> suggested trying freon, but this sounds like a good way to ruin the stub
> axle.
Since tyhe outer bearing races are in the hub I am going to assume
the inner bearing races hacve seize on the spindle. There are a
few ways of tackling this problem. First heat is good. If you
have access to torches heat the races one at a time and try and
work each race off in succession with a chisel and hammer taking
care not to damage the stub axle. If this doesn't work try
drilling a small hole through the race only enough to penetrate the
case hardening. You will have to centre punch the race before
drilling. Once the hole (1//8 inch is good) is drilled hit it
directly with a flat chisel running parrallel to the stub axle.
This may crack the race and facilitate removal.
I have had best results working such a race off with an air chisel
on the race carefully using a flat bit.
Failing this, take a cutting torch and blow a large hole in the
race taking care not to damage the stub axle. A small mark in the
stub axle can usually be burnished out.
Excessive heat will damage the stub axle beyond repair however,
removing the stub axle assembly from the car should not afffect
your alignment. In fact replacing the bearings will probably
bring your alignment back to spec (camber anyway) assuming the
other components were in alignment to start with.
> From: megatest!bldg2fs1!sfisher@uu2.psi.com (Scott Fisher)
> Subject: Re: '74 MGB Dieseling problem ?
>
> There are several things you can do to mitigate things. First off,
> realize that the B is a Sports Car, and use 92-octane gasoline. Yes,
> the '74 is supposed to have 8.0:1 compression, but if you're runnign
> on to this degree, I suspect it's raised either to the pre-72 ratio
> of 8.8:1 or, as you hint, perhaps even a little higher. (Remember
> that overboring an engine will raise the compression ratio, as will
> truing up the head and block, so even if the rebuild didn't include
> high-compression pistons or a good deal of head-skimming, it's still
> likely to be part of a point higher than stock.)
Scott is correct in saying to use the highest octane gas possible
(92 is generally available in Canada) however, overboring an
engine will *lower* the compression ratio unless higher crown
pistons are used or the head is planed (a good idea on any MGB head
as they tend to warp)
> | Ben Hodson, | Email : hodsonb@prl.philips.co.uk
|
> | Philips Research Labs, | Tel : 0293 785544 ext 5750 |
> | Crossoak Lane, |-------------------------------------------|
> | Redhill, | I'd rather push a Triumph than drive |
> | Surrey, RH1 5HA. | an MG, but best of all I'd vrooooommm |
> | England. | in a seven. |
> ========================================================================
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1993 3:41:58 -0400 (EDT)
> From: HABER@CVLAB.HARVARD.EDU
> Subject: Question
>
> I have a 1964 3 synchro transmission for 3 main bearing engine which I would
> like to install in my 1966 mgb with a 5 main bearing engine. I have replaced
> the first motion shaft with that for a 5 main engine. When I tighten down the
> extension tower or the front plate (around the first motion shaft) the main
> shaft begins to bind and can no longer be turned by hand. I have tried varyin
> the shims even removing them altogether as well as doubling the gaskets and
> it still binds when the bolts are tightened. Can a 5 main shaft be put in a
> three main transmission? If it can what modification are needed? If you have
> any suggestions I would really appreciate them.
>
> Thanks Graham
>
> Please reply to HABER@CVLAB.HARVARD.EDU since I am not a subscriber.
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
>
> End of British Cars Digest
> ************************
I would rather vroom in a tr
Ben is correct that he would rather push a triumpm than drive an mg as they
are soawful when they run. Driving MG's is what they do best. \Vrooming an
Austin Seven is not exactly exhiillerating \\(my 1200 baud connecting is
dying here...)) Lotus seven's are just too unreliable with that Ford lump
and Anglia gearbox and well caterham seven's are just kit cars after all
anyway.
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada
From rwg1@postoffice.mail.cornell.edu Tue Sep 11 11:41:42 2001
From: (Roger Garnett) rwg1@postoffice.mail.cornell.edu
To: (British Cars) british-cars@autox.team.net
Date: 20 Jul 93 08:46:08
Subject: Rover SD1
In my ongoing desire for a car with the Rover Aluminium V8 engine, (Ala
MGBV8, TR8, TVR, Morgan, Rover 3500S, etc.), I've begun to consider
trying to find a Rover SD1 (Available only in 1980-81 in the USA), either
for parts for a project, or as an actual car to drive about. Possibly as a
winter car if it's tatty, eventually to become a project, or possibly as a
keeper, if I find a nice example. One problem with this, is that there
aren't too many here about to examine, test, compare, etc. Sooo- I could
use a couple things from you SOL folks:
-Pricing/value info- If there are any SD1's, for sale in your area tell me
how much they're asking, and the condition, if possible.
-Comments from owners about actually running/maintaining the things.
-References to literature, etc. (Yes, I've got the British Car issue from
a couple years ago)
________________________________________________________
Roger Garnett (Roger_Garnett@cornell.edu)
"The South Lansing Centre For Wayward Sports Cars"
"All donations of stray, orphaned, odd, neglected, etc.
sports cars and bits in need of a good home accepted."
"The drop off bin is right there- behind the barn..."
|