Jody Levine is having problems with the windows on her TR7 convertible,
and wonders whether they all do that, or if there is a fix.
My experience is that, when the channels are optimally adjusted, the
windows can be raised with an acceptable effort. Well, maybe it wouldn't
be considered acceptable in a Mazda, but... I digress.
If you peruse catalogs such as TRF and Victoria British, you will find
at least three different window regulator handles to be available. My
recollection is that you can buy standard, heavy duty, and chrome. I
would expect that this broad availability is indicative of frequent
replacement (renewment?) by owners; in other words, I bet people break
'em all the time.
I have never broken a window regulator, but I have been bothered by
the rattling of the knob on the end whenever the stereo plays a
serious bass note. I was able to replace just the knob with an
aftermarket walnut part that could be mounted with felt washers to
eliminate the rattle.
The handle is not the only source of rattle--the door dress panel
rattles badly as well, and it leaks. I looked for years before I
discovered an excellent solution to this problem. I think the
trade name is Dynamat. It is a 1/8-inch thick acoustic damping
material for car stereo nuts. It is self-adhesive. Putting it inside
the door (there is more to it for those who are interested) cured my
bad sound ills and that leak (there were three others, but that's another
story).
Back on the original topic: I am curious about whether anyone has done
a design improvement on the window mechanism.
One last note: If the window raising mechanism is mislubricated, as
was mine, probably from the factory, the window might have a tendency
to not stay all the way up well. Mine would fall about a centimeter
in only a block's driving; therefore, the car would leak rainwater
if I forgot to "top off" the window every time I parked.
Joe Gorin joeg@sr.hp.com '80 TR7 convertible
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