british-cars
[Top] [All Lists]

Re: TR6 hydraulics

To: fredki@key.amdahl.com (Fred Ki)
Subject: Re: TR6 hydraulics
From: tj@alpine.b17a.ingr.com (T.J. Higgins)
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 92 20:24:29 CST
Fred Ki writes:
> My question: after installing carpet, I noticed some gunks at clutch m/c &
> pedal.  Didn't want leaky clutch m/c to ruin new carpet, I felt compelled
> to rebuild m/c.  Easy, 1 hr. job; done it before; used rebuild kit (rubber
> rings); bled it good.  After reassembly, I stepped on the clutch, the thing
> just bottomed & did not return!  Continued, frustrated pumping (of the
> clutch) didn't change a thing.  The slave cylinder did not even quiver.
> What is wrong?  Air introduced -- re-bleed?  

Possible, but I don't think so.

> The old m/c is shot 

More likely.  Did you hone the inside of the m/c?  Sometimes a few 
slow turns with a hone to break the glaze on the inner surface of the 
m/c is all it takes to get a good seal.  And like you said above, it 
only takes an hour.  A low-budget hone will only cost you $5-10 at the
hardware store.

Coat the honing stones and the inside of the m/c with brake fluid 
before you begin.  Use a variable-speed drill, and make sure you
don't spin it too fast or too long in one place inside the m/c.  Total
running time for the drill shouldn't be more than 5 seconds or so, 
just enough to break the glaze and give the seal something to grab on 
to.  I have used this technique on my car's clutch master & slave 
cylinder, and also brake m/c, with excellent results.

Best of luck,
-- 
T.J. Higgins | tj@alpine.b17a.ingr.com | Intergraph Mapping | Huntsville, AL
"Good breeding consists of concealing how much we think of ourselves
 and how little we think of the other person." -- Mark Twain


<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>