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Feedback from our readers

To: british-cars@hoosier.cs.utah.edu
Subject: Feedback from our readers
From: ian@Centric.COM (Ian Macky)
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 92 17:08:11 PDT
I got some feedback from the hub query of yesterday.  Here's the stuff that
wasn't already cc'd to british-cars that I think would be useful to all:

  ----

    From: lye@elegans.wustl.edu (John Lye)

    For what its worth, I always take those screws off and chuck them.  
    The wheel nuts are more than sufficient to hold the drums on.  Further,
    I've had a set of those screws freeze on a TR-3 and the slot isn't 
    deep enough to apply much torque which makes it hard to break them
    free again.

  [Making me think twice about this.  I think I'll put them on but use
   anti-seize.  You're supposed to do this on any threads which get
   royally hot, right? --ian]

  ----

    From: bownes@pluto.crd.ge.com (Robert M. Bownes)

    You can't make the adjustment with the hubs on the car because you
    can't get to the locknut with the hub bolted to the trailing arm.

  [Shares the prize with Mark Steph for the correct answer... --me]

  ----

    From: rgb@hal.com (Roger Bolick)
    Date: Thu, 8 Oct 92 08:50:31 CDT

    The best I can tell, the play should be less that 1/4"
    top to bottom on the mounted tire, i.e. grab tire at
    the top and bottom while suspended and rock in/out.
    
    I decided to replace mine when it reached 2" of slop.
    ...

This last one I didn't understand.  .25"?  2"?????  The measurement for
rear bearing play is runout, and the spec is something like .02 - .05".
If you have .25"+ of play in a bearing you are in deep trouble...   and
2" means the ball bearing are falling out and you'll be lucky to make it
to the end of the the driveway!   So, huh?

I'm still fooling with the rear end.  Had one of the drums painted red to
see how it looked (silver Panasports, red car).  Nah.  Black's better, I'm
gonna re-do it.  Ordered new springs and retainer pins and all that jazz
as long as I'm in there.  I really hate putting corroded grungy worn-out
parts back on after I've taken them off, expecially things that weaken like
springs.

On a side note, TRF came up with some front engine mounts that didn't have
the bogus air gap, but were solid rubber.  The replacement air gap ones I
put on originally are already shot, !(#@$*&^!!; the solid ones will be fine
I'm sure.

--ian

PS This list is great!  Praise the Internet and LBC lovers...

PPS Scotty, what year is your 6?  Do you know what the deal is with the
    '69 PCV setup?


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