Here's another posting from Dick Nyquist. Please send any off-line
comments to him directly at dickn@hpspdbc.spd.hp.com.
Thanks,
Roland
> From dickn@hpspdbc.spd.hp.com Fri Jul 10 10:09 PDT 1992
> Subject: Paint and tubing
> To: cobra@snakebyte.cdc.hp.com (Roland Dudley)
> Date: Fri, 10 Jul 92 10:08:47 PDT
>
>
>
> I notice some comments on copper lines for fuel and brakes in
> the sol-digest. Fuel pressure is usually less then 5 psi. Brake pressures
> can exceed 1000 psi. Copper will work fine for fuel so long as it is
> not subject to excessive flexing or vibration. Clearly copper will
> work in a brake system up to a point. However when it fails it will
> be in a panic stop situation and it will be catastrophic. I have been
> reading the "Brake Handbook" by Fred Puhn it is an excellent book on the
> design and testing of brakes with a lot of information about racing
> applications.
>
> (quoted from the "Brake Handbook")
>
> "Copper tubing or any tubing of unknown material should NEVER
> be used for brake tubing. Copper is soft and prone to cracking......
> "Tubing manufactured for brake systems......... is made of soft-steel
> strips sheathed with copper. These strips are then rolled into a double
> wall tube and bonded at high tempurature in a furnace. The tube is then
> tin-coated for corrosion resistance...... Always use proper quality
> brake-tubing material..."
>
> Here in the western states high heat and hard high speed stops are
> common. Fortunatly we do not face much of a rust problem. For my
> cars I will only use steel brake tubing or braided steel hoses, your
> milage may vary.
>
>
> On the topic of exhaust manifold paint:
> the porcelain glaze found on the expaust manifolds of many classic
> cars in the 1920s and 1930s and on Jaguars more recently is the same
> material found on steel or cast iron bath tubs. The process was invented
> by Buick in the 1880s. (He later lost his money starting the Buick auto
> company.) A few years ago I wanted to have the manifold a classic car
> redone with this material. It cost a bit over $100.00 but it came out
> perfect and it still looks that way after several trips the length of
> California and lots of local use. The manifold has also been on and
> off the car several times. It still has a high gloss. If I was restoring
> a Jag I'd consider the original material. Mine was done by:
>
> Porcelain Patch and Glaze
> 966 86th st, Oakland, Calif
>
> 1(510)635-2188
>
> There may be other places to get it done. Ask someone who restores
> Packards, Lincolns or other classics.
>
>
> dickn
>
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