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Re: Permatex

To: British Cars <british-cars@hoosier>
Subject: Re: Permatex
From: sggy@crux1.cit.cornell.edu (Roger Garnett)
Date: Wed, 6 May 1992 09:48:44 -0400
william sadler scribed:
 Subject: Permatex
> 
> I needed a gasket for the lower half of the distributor housing
> where it mates with the engine block.  I tried using the old one
> but it leaked.  So I went to the store and bought some Permatex.
> Put it on on bolted it up.  It lasted about 4 minutes, then gradually
> all dissolved.  I thought that maybe I had to let it dry for a longer
> period of time, so I re-did the job then left it for several hours.

Should that just be an O-Ring? If there's any real pressure there, RTV
may not be able to deal with it. Isn't it awful hard to adjust the timing
once you glue the distributer in place? :-)   

RTV/Silicone cement and similar fake rubber compounds should be installed
as follows for best sealing:
   -both mating surfaces must be clean and dry. 
1) -Spread an even layer on one surface. Let partially cure- 30-60 minutes,
    until it skins over.
2) -assemble the components loosely, allowing full contact and light
    compression of the sealant. Install screws, but tighten lightly.
3) -allow to cure overnight. (12+ hours)
4) -do final tightening of assembly.

If you assemble and tighten "wet", the sealant will squish right out. If you
let it set up first, it will form a thicker, compressible seal.
If uncured RTV sealants are exposed to petro-chemicals, they probably won't
cure, then will wash away. This is worst with gasoline. You can sometimes
speed up step 3) for a non-pressurized oil seal, like a valve cover, but
if it will be exposed to pressure or gasoline, allow full curing time. 

   ________
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