CLANK XVI: Picking up the Pieces
The Clankster is almost-almost-almost back on the road. All that remains is
to rebuild the brake master cylinder, replace the front brake hoses, bleed the
system and GO. I figger there's a fifty-fifty chance of getting to drive it to
work tomorrow.
The "Cause of the Clank" was actually fairly interesting. There's a
circlip around the end of the starter motor shaft, right near the nose of the
drive. This locates the shaft of the starter drive, and keeps it from coming
right out the nose.
The circlip fits in a groove around the shaft. Over the circlip is a
rather special "washer" that is of two different internal diameters, depending
on which end you look at it from. At one end, it's right to slip over the
shaft. The i.d. at the other side is larger, allowing the washer to slip over
the circlip. This washer holds the circlip inside it's groove, not allowing it
to slip out.
My washer was long gone :-(. It's absence allowed the drive to push the
circlip right out of its groove, spoiling the drive's alignment with respect to
the flywheel, and letting the gears come in contact.
I made up a replacement by reaming out two ordinary washers to fit over the
circlip. I then reamed out a third washer to fit over the shaft, and brazed
the three washers together. Instant special part! Good thing too, because
Moss is out of stock, and TRF says "They're no longer supplied" :-(. Does
anybody out there have one of these washers? Eternal gratitude and monetary
reward await....
Another task undertaken last week, was to seal up the steering box. This
had stopped leaking while the Clankster was in storage, and so was doubtless
empty. I attacked it with two "secret weapons". The first was a tube of
"super silicone", which I used to seal the gland nut where the steering column
wires come out ( TR3 folks will know the one I mean ).
The second secret weapon was something new, that I think others might be
interested in. This is Permatex "Leak Repair"; a product which claims to seal
leaks WITHOUT DISSASEMBLING THE LEAKING ASSEMBLY. The general idea is that
you clean off the assembly, spray this liquidy stuff on it, and let it dry.
The liquid forms a rubbery film over the leak, sealing it up. I guess it also
gets into gasket interfaces by "capillary action". Sounds perfect for sealing
up leaky TR6 intake tracts! Permatex says to use 2-3 heavy coats, masking
anything you don't want to paint. Actually, if it gets on something, its not
too bad, because the stuff is clear and shiny. I just refilled the steering
box with gear oil; we'll see if the "Leak Repair" really works.
- Jerry
p.s. Word to the wise: DONT mess with DOT5 brake fluid before painting your
car; the invisible "silicone film" plays hell with paint adhesion and is
nearly impossible to wash off effectively. It's OK, though. The car is red
now, shiny, and looks great from about 10 feet :-).
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