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Re: Rotary conversion in a Midget

To: british-cars-local-request@wsl.dec.com (Dennis Wilson)
Subject: Re: Rotary conversion in a Midget
From: miq@chromavac.esd.sgi.com (Miq Millman)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 92 10:26:21 PDT
I think that after many months of research, I'm probably one of the few
experts on rotary spridgets.  You see, I am building Frankensprite, a 1963
Austin Healey Sprite with a rotary engine.  There are no kits available, but
there are a couple of shops around the country that would be happy to build
you one for a very princely sum (in the $25K range).  Here is the info I have
on the specs of Frankensprite so far:


Frankensprite is a 1963 Austin Healey Mk II that is getting a rotary engine.
Why MkII?  Well I really couldn't justify vilifying a bugeye that way, and
I like having a trunk and extra room in the cockpit.  The Mk II's are pretty 
light and the coil over kits for the rear suspension are better for the 1/4
elliptic than the 1/2 elliptic.  Plus Jeffie had a really nice rust free 
(almost) roller that was taking up space in his backyard/salvage yard.

Here's the scoop:  (my example)

Use RX7 stuff:
    engine (12.5B with 6 port street port, IMSA GTU carb, free exhaust 
    by 12.5B it has parts from a 13B and 12A put together in a sort of
    Dagwood sandwich, == 175 hp)
    transmission (5 spd from 84 GSLSE)
    rear transaxel (83 GSL for disk brakes and limited slip)

Use sprite stuff:
    gauges
        interior
        exterior

Fabricate stuff:
        wiring harness (using a Hot rodder fuse block)
        hydraulics (tilton and I have come up with a good set up I think)
        roll cage with engine mounts/suspension mounts and tube frame rear susp.
        custom drive shaft
        use front end from GT6, much better turn in than a sprite, and better
        disk brakes than the spit/mgb combo.

Currently Frankensprite is waiting for me to collect the $$$$ for the rollcage
to be installed, I have most everything else I need to bolt things in, except
for brakes and clutch stuff, and some wiring.

There used to be a company called Sprizda that made a kit to pop in a rx-2
engine and tranny into a sprite, but they didn't work on the rear end or
do suspension work, and the cars handled like pigs and snapped axels.  This was
about 12 years ago and they are not around anymore.  

The place that helped me build my rx-3 years ago called tripoint engineering
in Canoga Park has made about 5 conversions over the years.  They just sold
a rotary bugeye to someone in North Carolina for something like $20000.  They
do nice work, but are expensive.  I figure that Frankensprite will cost me 
about $5000 plus my labor (lots of it).

If anyone wants even more info that this call me or send email, I'll be glad to
stool pigeon for ya.

_____________________________________________________________________________


The rear end has now been completed.  It is completely custom 4 link affair,
with a really cool geometry, ended up costing about $700 for all the custom
design work, but should really be able to hold the rubber to the pavement.

The cage is next.  (I keep saying that)

Here's a quick break down of costs so far:

Sprite shell ~$200 in metal, paint and sandpaper to get it stripped and
primered.

175 hp 12.5B rotary engine long block (all the stuff attached) ported and
balanced, a mazda 5 spd transmission (new), mazda rear end with disk brakes
and limited slip ~$1750

Miscelaneous bits and pieces that can't be put on the car yet, but I will
need them. (seats, guages, GT6 front end, suspension bushings, K&N filter, 
some chrome bits) ~$500

What I need to spend in the near future/distant future:

Integral 8 point roll cage that will incorperate engine mount points, and
rear suspension ~$1700

Earle's stainless steel lines and hoses for engine, brakes, etc ~$450

Electrical system ~$200

Dual master cylinder setup from tilton ~$250

tires ~$400

More paint for undercoating, and color finish (I'm seriously considering just
using common spray paint and inviting friends over to paint wild designs on
the car (flames and what not) then color sand that down get the car clear
coated at a professional shop to make it nice and shiney) ~$600

This adds up to about $6100 which is almost close to my original budget of
$5000 and certianly within the margin of error that usually hits projects 
like this.  


Now the budget looks to be closer to $7000 since I have decided to go with
15" rims instead of 13" ones, and use Duralight rims instead of Minilite
replicas.

-- 
Miq Millman -- miq@sgi.com or {decwrl,pyramid,ucbvax}!sgi!miq  415 335 1041




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