>1971 Europa S2, Renault engine modified to twin cam performance, white
>exterior, black interior, interior restored, many spares (including
>Weber carb and trunk lid). Garaged, low mileage, good condition.
>Great buy at $5000 firm. Brian 205-837-7610 (w), 205-233-4811 (h).
>(Huntsville AL)
Looks a winner. I couldn't duplicate it with mine and stay under the price.
But I will have what I want without it being all nice and original. Wish it
had been painted white instead of black, though!
Took out the console and dashboard yesterday. The wire on the back of the dash
weighs more than the instruments and the stereo. I had originally planned on
tracing the circuits and simplifying them. I have changed my mind. It is just
too odd. There are at least four times as many wires and connectors in this
car as is necessary, so I will just take it all out and start over. I am not
going to preserve all the relays for reduced voltage at the switches, or the
handy-box with the wire-wrap bread-boarded logic chips and transistors to run
the fog-light-as-turn-signals and gosh knows what else. I will put in
tubes for conduit perhaps. This will make repair and modifications simple.
Right now, the guy who wired this is the only person in the world capable of
fixing it when something is wrong. I will have to start again.
I will be asking lots of questions about wiring later on, but here is one to
start: On an alternator-equipped car, which is more useful, an ammeter or
voltmeter? There is an ammeter with the usual charge/discharge markings on
there now. This adds a huge amount of distance to the charging circuit. I
think this ammeter is the one gauge not original anyway. If you didn't have to
run this cable all the way from the voltage regulator to the gauge to the
battery, you could cut out a lot of BIG wire. The battery mounts about 12
inches from the voltage regulator. A voltmeter could be hooked across the
power lead coming into the instrument panel.
I also got the coolant hoses, the swirl pot, the speedometer drive and the
parking brake mechanism out. I had to take out the throttle pedal to get the
parking brake disconnected! Must be a Lotus. I think all that is left is to
remove the master cylinder, and the body can go straight up.
Now I have to think about the best way to lift it and support the body sans
frame!
Phil Ethier, THE RIGHT LINE, 672 Orleans Street, Saint Paul, MN 55107-2676
h (612) 224-3105 lotus@pnet51.orb.mn.org
w (612) 298-5324 phile@pwcs.stpaul.gov (list goes here)
"The workingman's GT-40" - Anthony Colin Bruce Chapman
--
Login name: phile In real life: Philip J Ethier
Phone: 298-5324
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