Here are some answers to questions that I have received....
Jim TenCate asks:
} Anyway, I've got a question for him :-) Since he had to take
} everything apart to get the gearbox out, how easy is it to remove the
} catalytic converter to get at the starter motor? I need to replace my
} starter motor (as you may recall), and I've been avoiding it lately
} since I've had a leaky injector and oxygen sensors to replace :-(
} Still, one of these days,,. If Tim has any suggestions, I'd like to
} hear about them!
You'll want to start by removing the battery cables. Since you'll
be working near the starter, there will be plenty of opportunities for
a stray wrench to contact the unfused cable that connects the battery
to the starter solenoid (flash!) so to prevent welded wrenches, remove
the cables first.
The main problem that you will have in removing the converter(s)
will be getting access to the nuts and bolts that clamp the converter
to the intermediate pipe. The grass shields (on the bottom) and the
heat shields (on the top) effectively restrict you from placing a
wrench on these nuts and bolts. The first thing that you need to do
is remove the grass shields from the heat shields. The grass shields
on my car were made of stainless steel so they were in fairly good
shape. The heat shields were made of ordinary steel so there wasn't
too much left of them after 10 years due to rusting. If you're lucky,
you'll be able to remove the nuts from the U-bolts that are welded to
the heat shield. Otherwise you'll have to improvise when you put
everything back together. On my TR-8, I broke all of the U-bolts
trying to get the nuts off, so I had to order some of the U-bolts
shown on P. 63 of the TRF catalog. These are shown in both top left
and bottom left frames as UKC8676. These take a M5 nut which you
should be able to find at the hardware store. I placed a couple over
the pipe to hold the grass shield on, and a couple over the top of the
heat shield to hold it in place. Anyway, I'm digressing--back to
removing the converter.
Turn to p.63 in the TRF catalog to follow along with me--upper
right frame. You may be able to get sufficient access by removing
just the grass shield from the converter. Give the three bolts
(BH108101--the secret code for a M8 x 50 bolt) with double nuts
(NR108090) a good shot of penetrating oil. You may be lucky enough to
get all of them out in one piece. While you're underneath, give the
three nuts that hold the converter to the manifold studs (NR108090) a
squirt, too. The manifold nuts came off rather easily in my case, but
the lock washers were ruined due to the heat and were replaced since
they were only good as flat washers--no spring left to them. Onward...
Once you get the flange bolts loosened, you will be able to rotate
the flange assembly around the pipe for better access. Finally, once
you've removed all of the bolts, remove the manifold nuts. The pipe
at the rear of the converter will probably be holding the converter in
place against the manifold flange--I'm speculating since I removed my
intermediate pipes by this point. You said that you had a FI engine
with lambda sensors--these should probably be removed by this time.
With enough clearance from the intermediate pipe, the converter should
drop away from the manifold for removal. Be very careful not to drop
it as the ceramic honeycomb inside could be destroyed--replacement
converter cost is $272 from TRF.
When you go to reinstall it, you'll need a new gasket between the
cat and the manifold (GEG745--only $2.50 each). I used an anti-seize
compound on all of the exhaust system nuts and bolts to make future
disassembly easier. It's messy, but worth it. While I had the
converter out, I replaced the heat shield since mine was in terrible
shape. You must have the heat shield in place before you bolt the
converter back in because there is not enough clearance to install it
with the converter in place. You may wish to make a note of the part
number that is stamped on the converter "can" for future reference.
Also, don't forget the coupling olive (UKC4341) when you assemble
everything. Mine were in excellent condition, so I kept the originals
in service.
For your information, my TR-8 is equipped with the California type
exhaust system even though it is a "Federal" model with carbs. The
engine number is in the 12E series (see p. XIII in the TRF catalog)
if that makes a difference to you.
Here's my phone number if you wish to contact me:
(815) 332-3119 --home number--don't be afraid to leave a message on the
machine that some people seem to fear like the plague
In my last note, I wrote that I had a sticker on the left strut
tower that said "T.P.A. Paint", and didn't know what it meant. I
forgot to add that the color of my 8 is Persian Aqua (paint code JMW),
if that makes a difference. Jim TenCate stated that he had the same
sticker and that his was Platinum metallic. Any hints?
Now for my question of the day...
Sometime in the past, my TR-8 suffered from tire chain damage to
the black quarter panel extension panels just behind the rear wheels.
The TRF catalog shows them as WKC79 (left) and WKC80 (right) as shown
on p.99 of their catalog and both are listed as NLS. Does anybody
know of another source for these two panels?
Tim Buja Cherry Valley, IL
ccm0b@vm.cc.purdue.edu
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