This is the fourth in a series of the TR-8 saga....
During our drive back from Utah, we noticed that the temperature
gauge never got above the 1/4 mark, and the heater just wasn't up to
the task of keeping us warm. This wasn't a real item of concern just
yet as I didn't want to run the risk of overheating an aluminum engine
when the weather got really hot. It did get some attention the next
spring when I got the clutch fixed in early April. Going out for a
spin even with the top up was just a little bit too chilly with a
barely operable heater. As I wanted to drive it to work for a while
to get the bugs sorted out, I decided to check on the thermostat. In
a previous installment, you heard that this TR-8 had experienced a
Loss Of Coolant Accident and suffered the inevitable subsequent
overheating while in the canyons above Salt Lake City. A common
failure mode of thermostats is to stick in the fully open position if
the engine has overheated, and that is exactly what happened to this
one. I replaced it with a new one, which made quite a difference in
the operating temperature--the gauge now runs between the 1/4 and 1/2
marks, and the heater became very effective.
The next item to resolve was the convertible top. The top itself
was in good condition, but the windows had turned opaque with age and
had cracked in a number of places. I know, you're all saying to
yourself "Who drives with the top UP?", but I would rather have clear
windows that don't let the rain in when the occasional gulley washer
roars through northern Illinois. I ordered a new top from The
Roadster Factory and it soon arrived. A few calls later, I found an
auto upholstery shop that would install it for $75 and voila! a top
with windows that let the light in. Finally, I could drive it on a
cool night without having to zip the window out (for rear visibility)
and run the heater in the blast furnace position.
The latest series of projects involves the steering. The
turn/dip/horn switch needs to be replaced since the latch that holds
the switch in the high or low beam position is broken. The effect of
this is that the high beams come on upon acceleration or braking, and
the low beams are on the rest of the time. I finally pulled the fuses
for the high beams so that they would not bother oncoming motorists.
This does cause problems when I'm out in the country and want to see
what's just a little bit further down the road, so I ordered a new
switch and am ready to install it. This brings me to my next
question:
What is the best way to pull the steering wheel on the TR-8? The
repair says to use a "suitable puller". Most steering wheel pullers
are designed to pull the steering wheel hub using two bolts that screw
into drilled and tapped holes in the hub. With my TR-8, the steering
wheel hub does not have these holes, and I don't know what to do next.
I am trying to fabricate a tool that would pull on the hub flange that
the wheel is attached to, but I am hesitant to do so because I'm not
sure how much force can be applied to this flange before it would
crack. For your information, the steering wheel that I have is shown
on page 36 of TRF's TR-7 and TR-8 catalog as part number PKC 1295
(bottom center drawing--not the inset). This drawing shows the some
of the nine screws and nuts that attach the wheel to the hub flange
that I am proposing to pull on. Any hints?
Another steering project involves the power steering rack.
Whenever the wheel is turned sharply, I get a squirt of power steering
fluid from the top of the valve assembly which inevitably ends up on
the underside of the TR-8 and from there, onto the garage floor. It
seems that the seals for the power steering control valve are shot and
need to be replaced, so I am contemplating the removal of the power
steering rack to rebuild the valve assembly. Does anyone have any
hints or suggestions to offer before I begin?
This appears to be a big job--I have to support the engine while I
lower the subframe to get enough room to remove the rack assembly. I
also have noticed that there is a knocking sound in the steering when
I hit a series of bumps in the road, and there is a bit of free play
in the steering wheel. The repair manual shows a plunger that presses
the pinion gear onto the rack gear, but it does not show any of the
parts used for the control of the power steering fluid, as if the
description is for a non-power rack unit. The owner's manuals fail to
show the power steering equipment on their description of adjustment
on this plunger. So, I am turning to all of you for some guidance.
Adjustment of this plunger would have to be done while the rack is out
of the car, so it looks like now is the time to do it. Needless to
say, I will gladly accept any suggestions on how to do this job!
Finally, on the left strut tower, there is a sticker that says
"T.P.A Paint". Does anyone know what this means? I plan on repainting
the TR-8 in the near future and I don't want any surprises after I get
done.
This message will be the last one for a while as I have a few other
projects around the house that are screaming for some attention. I
appreciate any comments you can make regarding the TR-8, and I will
let you know how everything turns out.
Tim Buja Cherry Valley, IL
(email via ccm0b@vm.cc.purdue.edu)
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