> Angry, but not yet defeated, I went to Sears and bought a reverse-thread
> tap. I went home, drilled the proper size pilot hole, and inserted the
> tap. It proceeded to bite into the stud. When it had seated itself
> firmly in the stud, I applied pressure, and it promptly broke off at
> the surface of the stud. I now have a manifold stud, with a hardened
> tool steel die imbedded in it, stuck in the cylinder head.
This sounds familiar...
> As I see it, I can:
>
> 1) Try to drill out the entire stud with the head still in the car.
> 2) Remove the head and try to drill out the stud.
> 3) Remove the head, take it to a machine shop and have someone
> with experience in such matters drill out the stud.
After mucking around for three hours on the engine stabilizer bolt for
one of my Minis (it had sheared slightly below flush), I ended up having
a machine shop drill it out, install a plug, and drill a fresh hole in
forty-five minutes for $35.
As long as there are no holes in the valves, I think you'll find option
3) is the fastest, most reliable way to get the car on the road. Assuming
that the cylinder head will come off the block...
(I once spent a month trying to remove the GT-6 cylinder head, finally
resorting to the utter no-no of a pounding a putty knife between the cylinder
head and the block!)
--
George Emery - via FidoNet node 1:105/14
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