Greg,
If you're leaking externally at the solenoid valve, it's the o-ring. If
you're leaking through the exhaust side of the valve, it's the plunger.
The spring is used to provide enough force to counter the air pressure
on the back side of the valve. It may be that the spring has gotten weak
over time (it happens) but that's an easy fix, just give it a pull to
restretch it (f=kx so your preload will increase. Just make sure you
don't do too much or it will exceed the magnetics and you won't be able
to open the valve)
Seth
#1544
Greg Schroeder wrote:
> I have ordered two of the repair kits The vendor indicated it should
> include the 0-Ring and Plunger. Basically all the internals to repair
> the solenoid. I will find out in a couple of days if that is
> correct. I only found two vendors with this kit (RK-1AAA41-AC) to
> repair the KIP solenoid one was $24 and the other was $15. One told
> me they sold one about three years ago. If you find a vendor with a
> better price let me know. I would have liked to just get the part
> number for the plunger, but that has not happened. Since I believe I
> can get these for $5. I believe the plunger is the problem. It is
> either the rubber piece, spring or both that keep the air from
> leaking. These vendors do not reply to emails and are not very
> helpful on the phone.
>
> One note on if you try to make this repair. You can take apart the
> down solenoid without removing the air pressure. If you work on the
> up one you need to remove all the air from the tank since it will be
> under pressure and I am not sure what will happen with that last turn
> to get to the internals. Under 125 psi, it could be interesting where
> it may shoot the existing parts.
>
> John,
>
> I will try to take more photos and write something up. I have several
> articles in various phases, but nothing complete.
>
> Greg 0036
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